Type: Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 195 total · 13/month
Shared By: Trevor McDonald on Nov 4, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Chan Kim

You & This Route


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Description


Posting on my behalf as a party that mistook this route for Longing for Two and got off after its 3rd pitch to climb L42. My beta will die after pitch 3 and you'll have to use the separate topo photo shown to finish er. Really cool stuff here kids. P2 has the coolest arete traverse you'll find at 5.9ish.

P1 variation: 5.5
The corner gully (5.5) 10m dead-ends, and I think that is what Tao is talking about. I continued by climbing up the shit-gully with the shrubs and trees and then traversed right to the proper P1-P2 belay. So when you're on the ground, at the blue sign, take the face & crack with the bolts, this should be correct??
P2 Variation: 5.9
Start up  a think bolted crack to a flake that is sling-able. Then find some cool dishes to your left to slab up and onto the arete. I think Longing for Two climbs left of the major pine (20m from belay). I took the lower/right variation on accident, clipping bolts on the arete to a catwalk and bolted belay on the face that is right-facing. Super rad little traverse.
P3 Variation, really cool flow on slab: 10.a/b
Some kinda variation with 10- slab moves, well-protected by a bolt just off the belay. Clip one more bolt, slam a cam in below a roof, grab a sick jug, hoist yourself and dance some fancy footwork. Just above the roof and left you can protect with a .3 camalot and a long sling. Continue up and right on the slab and clip another bolt (5m) above the roof you danced on, sling a granite tufa, then continue right up a hysterically bolted splitter, and finally a two-bolt anchor on a smallish ledge shared with a tree.
P4: Variation-ish.
From the P3-P4 belay you'll see a handline about 5m overhead, this is where the variation linked back with the proper route. From here we linked most every pitch, and topped out in probably an hour.

Location

Your turn is actually a left turn from the hikers trail, about 5 mins after seeing the last routes on the SW wall of Biseondae-Junggunbong. Hike up and around a ridge and you'll be close to the start. Now you're in a little gully and you'll see the broken blue sign Tao mentions on the Longing for Two page. But be sure to look uphill and locate the second blue sign (not currently broken), and that is the beginning of the climb.

Ill admit, I still have no idea where Longing for Two starts. We run up this corner gully and then had to traverse right back onto the face shown in the photo above. By then we were off track and onto this cool variation.

Protection

BD .3-3 Single Rack, Nuts, A few double lengths to sling tufas, and 8 alpine draws. 70m cord.

Photos