Type: Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches
FA: Justin Willis (Solo) October, 2019; FFA Justin Willis, Shane Miller two week later
Page Views: 611 total · 11/month
Shared By: Justin Willis on Nov 4, 2019
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D Crane

You & This Route

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Strap on your cowboy/girl boots along with your goggles- it's about to get rowdy!

P1 - Pull surprisingly hard moves off the deck and climb through a serious big moves between finger pods in a seamed corner(I'm 5'6" and I managed just fine) until you reach a rest. Easy OW gains you fifteen feet to a "hmm how in the hell do I do this?" series of moves to another jug on a massive flake. Look behind the flake and thank Obeah that you are above it. More OW! Squeeze! beware of the loose blocks as you pull out the chimney. I cleaned a lot on the free ascent and I believe it to be completely safe for desert standards. Save hand-sized or larger gear on this adventure mega pitch to build an anchor in the beautiful twin cracks in the back of the chimney. 60m 5.11+

P2- On the first ascent, I went up and right. On the free ascent we went up and left. Go up and left. Build an anchor with wide gear and enjoy one of the coolest places on the planet.

Decent: Walk 30' West(toward the summit) from the rim and locate new rap rings for another climb. Two 60's got us down in two easy raps.

After searching for the summit register for hours and finding GARBAGE on the summit(!?!?!?!?) I found it and I built a small cairn on the S. Summit with the register inside.

NOTE: I did much cleaning off the ledge at the top of the first pitch. The second ascent may be sandy, but it should clean up nicely.

Location Suggest change

The route is in the center of the buttress closest to the parking area. Walk 50 yards around the left side of the formation, gain the base of the cliff and traverse back right to the base of the route. There is a large right facing dihedral 70' to the left and a huge left facing dihedral 40' to the right. Start in the overhang beneath a beautiful shallow dihedral. Approach time: 10 mins.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles of BD .3-#6. No #5's needed.