Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Peter Young, Wayne Watkins late 80s
Page Views: 738 total · 35/month
Shared By: Ti ck on Nov 3, 2019
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Oh hello spicy southern slab

P1 locate double pine tree which fell off the mountain, from this root ball make slab moves up then a traverse to the tree ledge with large pine. This section can be wet, can be protected by throwing a rope over the tree island. But the tree island is your only real pro on this pitch, I was also able to place a .5 in a poor flairing eyebrow, i doubt it would hold blah blah blah tell me how a tricam is perfect blahhhhh continue up and left on eyebrows to gain the ledge with rings, there are several ways to do this.
  5.6 R/X 80ft

P2 and P3 should be combined. Follow the obvious crack with flakey lieback entrance exam. Extra #1#2#3 camalots are all very helpful. No rings at the top of p2, find the p3 rings after clipping the lone bolt which protects the slab moves after the crack peters out. 
5.9 180ft

P4 unrope from p3 anchors, walk left 15ft and ascend the groove and eyebrow face finding 3 bolts along the way.  Run it out after bolt 3.
This pitch seemed sandbagged to me but the groove had wetness going on, I also found additional gear, and two #1 camalots would have been helpful on this pitch. There are rings but i climbed right by them, trees up top are also useable.
 5.8 75ft

You will need to decend on twin 60m ropes using rings

Location

After the approach trail hits the wall go right for a few minutes. Look for the double fallen pine tree, from its exposed roots you can see p1 anchors and nice twin cracks about 6ft apart from eachother

Protection

Standard rack plus double #1#2#3

Photos