Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Sevve Stember, Alan Holzkopf, Scott Rysdahl, Maura LaRiviere 2010
Page Views: 270 total · 21/month
Shared By: Lucas Barth on Nov 3, 2019 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

I climbed this route with Jon Griffin in 2014. We thought we were doing a first ascent but later learned it had already been climbed by Sevve Stember et al. in 2010.

*We named it Mountain Pride for the huge clump of the flower, Penstemon newberryi, growing at the base of the route.

Pitch 1: 5.10b/c - The crux and best pitch of the route. A clean right facing corner. Awesome climbing! A few funky flakes are wedged in the corner but didn't budge when we tried to pull them out. 180 feet.

Pitch 2: 5.6 - Face climb up and left and belay at the base of a 4th class slab. 100ft

Pitch 3: 4th class - Up the slab and belay at a tree. 200 feet

Pitch 4: Move to the right up a short 5.6 offwidth, then continue right up 2nd class slab. 120 feet.

Pitch 5:  Up a short 5.8 hand crack, slab and then the top of the feature. 50 feet

4 and 5 should link easily with some long slings and/or rope drag.

Location

Go about 1 hour (approximately 3 miles) down from Glen Aulin High Sierra Camp. Locate the amazing steep golden wall that houses "The Fortress" route and bushwack up the gully on the right side of it. Maybe about 30-40 minutes or 1/3 of the way up the gully.

Protection

Doubles from .3 camalot to #3. You might want an extra #1 camalot for the first pitch.

Photos