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> Glen Aulin Area
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> Original climb list
The Fortress
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British A2+
Avg: 4 from 1
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Routes in Original climb list
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Buckin' Bronco T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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California Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Fortress, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A2+ |
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It takes a Village T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Just the Tips T 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Splitter boulder finger crack T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Splitter boulder hand crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Unknown *Mountain Pride T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| FA: | Sevve Stember, Alan Holzkopf, Scott Rysdahl, Maura LaRiviere 2010 |
| Page Views: | 952 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Lucas Barth on Nov 3, 2019 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
I haven't climbed this route. Below description is from Sevve Stember and AAJ.
"This July, I had the honor of fulfilling the mission of the Mountain Fellowship Award by establishing new routes on unnamed features near Waterwheel Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Yosemite National Park. Over the course of two weeks Alan Holzkopf, Scott Rysdahl, Maura LaRiviere, and I established four new routes. The most notable route, the Fortress Wall (700?, 8 pitches, IV 5.11- A2+), took us three days. To find the formation, walk down river from Glen Aulin (roughly one hour), past the prominent dome known as Wild Cat Point, until you see a striking wall on the north side of the canyon. Our route links a series of fantastic crack systems, with some exciting face climbing and tenuous glacially polished traverses, on the east end of the south face. The free climbing is high quality, with only one pitch of aid. The route is best descended by rappel.
We also established three other shorter lines. Two are splitter crack systems on a detached boulder east of the main wall. The third is a four-pitch climb that summits a smaller feature that is also east of the main wall.
Furthermore, we found evidence of previously unreported routes that likely date back to the original Yosemite hardmen. The climbing here, of which I could find no information or documentation, is extremely clean and aesthetic in a breathtaking wilderness setting. The opportunity to work on new lines with great climbing partners, while looking over Waterwheel Falls and the Tuolumne River, was an experience I will remember for years to come."
"This July, I had the honor of fulfilling the mission of the Mountain Fellowship Award by establishing new routes on unnamed features near Waterwheel Falls in the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne, Yosemite National Park. Over the course of two weeks Alan Holzkopf, Scott Rysdahl, Maura LaRiviere, and I established four new routes. The most notable route, the Fortress Wall (700?, 8 pitches, IV 5.11- A2+), took us three days. To find the formation, walk down river from Glen Aulin (roughly one hour), past the prominent dome known as Wild Cat Point, until you see a striking wall on the north side of the canyon. Our route links a series of fantastic crack systems, with some exciting face climbing and tenuous glacially polished traverses, on the east end of the south face. The free climbing is high quality, with only one pitch of aid. The route is best descended by rappel.
We also established three other shorter lines. Two are splitter crack systems on a detached boulder east of the main wall. The third is a four-pitch climb that summits a smaller feature that is also east of the main wall.
Furthermore, we found evidence of previously unreported routes that likely date back to the original Yosemite hardmen. The climbing here, of which I could find no information or documentation, is extremely clean and aesthetic in a breathtaking wilderness setting. The opportunity to work on new lines with great climbing partners, while looking over Waterwheel Falls and the Tuolumne River, was an experience I will remember for years to come."
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