Type: Sport, 130 ft, 2 pitches
FA: D. Augustine, J Stockmann 1997
Page Views: 12 total · 12/month
Shared By: Dillon Blanksma on Nov 2, 2019
Admins: Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

This is one of the easier routes up the Spindle on the south face with some exceptional climbing!

P1 The first pitch is not technically difficult just a little pumpy with a consistent steepness and one balancy move near the finish. The route follows the southwest arete (climber's left), but never goes onto the west face until the 2nd pitch.

P2 Climb straight up on conglomerate jugs with a crux near the 3rd bolt.
Looking at P2, the whole climb could possibly be done as one long pitch, but it creeps onto the west face just a bit so rope drag could be inevitable. However,  the bolts are placed well, right near the arete, so that draws may wrap around. Give it a shot if you want, with some alpines. Unbeatable location and summit. Definitely a must do! Get on it!

Location

The route is on the south face of the Spindle and follows the southwest arete up and trending climber's left. It is just left of Via Scorpion, a highly starred 12b/c that goes up climber's right. There is another route, rated at 10b that branches climber's left from Via Scorpion to meet with the 2nd pitch of Gordian Knot. It's called Silk Thread (Siedener Faden).

Protection

A couple of glue-in bolts (P1) and modern bolts with hangers (P2) with ring-bolt anchors. About 10 QDs for P1 and 5 QDs for P2.

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