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No Purchase Necessary
5.13a/b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Avg: 3 from 5
votes
Routes in Welcome Wall
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Always Blunt, Never Dull S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Always Welcome, Never Invited S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Mad Fiddler Flake S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Monkey Business S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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No Purchase Necessary S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Pocket Knife S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Super Smash Bros S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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You're Welcome S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Matt Martinez, Luke Bertelsen, Jon Mavko, Anais Quintela Oct 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,290 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Matt martinez on Oct 31, 2019 |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Access Issue: Private land crossing and parking information - PLEASE READ BELOW !
Details
You walk across private land to enter this area. The landowner has been tolerant so long as we don't disturb his land or his cattle. To keep a good relationship with him it is extremely important that climbers don't mess with grazing cattle, and that ALL GATES STAY AS THEY ARE FOUND. Also, the large gate on the north side of the parking area MUST NOT BE BLOCKED IN ANY WAY; the rancher regularly uses this gate as he drives a truck pulling a large trailer, so the road leading to said gate MUST STAY CLEAR by least 40 feet on all sides, including the road perpendicular to it (running east-west). If the parking area is full, drive past the bridge and park on the next pullout (not far), and NEVER BY THE GATE.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Please be respectful and keep this access open to climbers. Use posted photos for this area to familiarize yourself with where parking is and is not allowed. Access to all gates must remain available to a truck and trailer. Parking in any way that restricts access to the gates north of the highway will jeopardize access for climbing.
Description
The Farmhouse approach may leave you feeling broke(n) but don’t worry, it’s a small price to pay...
This route is a diamond in the rough. While a little visually bankrupt, the movement is money. A few bolts of mellow climbing, pulling long moves on slopers over several shelves puts you at the base of a low budget boulder problem bulge that deposits you on a large ledge with a highly equitable no hands rest. The crux revolves around setting up on dime edge feet and fingers for a dead point to a devious slimper that may feel impossible to gain purchase of. But don't put your wallet away, a couple more bolts of strenuous moves gives way to 30-40’ of chert pulling that will challenge your endurance. As the angle turns up, the holds get bigger and pulling the roof will make you feel like you won the chert lottery. Clip the chains and enjoy the jackpot - a stellar view and sense of accomplishment.
And you didn’t have to spend a single dollar.
This route is a diamond in the rough. While a little visually bankrupt, the movement is money. A few bolts of mellow climbing, pulling long moves on slopers over several shelves puts you at the base of a low budget boulder problem bulge that deposits you on a large ledge with a highly equitable no hands rest. The crux revolves around setting up on dime edge feet and fingers for a dead point to a devious slimper that may feel impossible to gain purchase of. But don't put your wallet away, a couple more bolts of strenuous moves gives way to 30-40’ of chert pulling that will challenge your endurance. As the angle turns up, the holds get bigger and pulling the roof will make you feel like you won the chert lottery. Clip the chains and enjoy the jackpot - a stellar view and sense of accomplishment.
And you didn’t have to spend a single dollar.
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