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Unknown (Project)

5.10+ PG13, Trad, 120 ft (36 m), Grade II,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: unknown
New York > Adirondacks > E: High Peaks R… > Mt Colden

Description

This is a classic route disguised as a heap of moss and choss...  I refuse to believe that this is the first time it's been climbed, but I saw no evidence of others having been there before me, and there was so much loose rock that it felt like I was the first one there.  I was unable to climb to the top, as darkness came on and there is good bit of dangerously loose rock on the upper portion, so I'm mainly adding this route to MP as a placeholder until I get back to finish it up.  However, if anyone has any info on this route, please let me know!  

I started in the small left facing corner to the left of the ledge with trees on it, traversed right into the main corner just above the ledge, and continued up the corner until the last roof.  Above this the crack is extremely flared, and there is quite a bit of dangerous loose rock guarding the transition over the roof.  I rapped off from a bail anchor comprised of 2 nuts and a sling.

Grade rating is obviously just for the portion that I climbed, since I have no way of knowing how difficult it is above the roof.

Location

Walk up into the Trap Dike.  This is the first major wall facing back down the Dike on the right.

Protection

To bail anchor - standard rack to 3"
Above bail anchor - looks wide in places.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I started to the left of the small ledge, in a left facing corner below the blocky roofs.  Could probably start directly below the tree ledge and go straight up.
[Hide Photo] I started to the left of the small ledge, in a left facing corner below the blocky roofs. Could probably start directly below the tree ledge and go straight up.
Just after taking a rather large fall out of the roof due to hold breakage... Core shot mah rope!
[Hide Photo] Just after taking a rather large fall out of the roof due to hold breakage... Core shot mah rope!
This is where I started.  Once I had moved up the short left rising crack to the third horizontal, I traversed around the corner and towards the trees to access the main left facing corner that goes all the way up.
[Hide Photo] This is where I started. Once I had moved up the short left rising crack to the third horizontal, I traversed around the corner and towards the trees to access the main left facing corner that goe…
Location of route as seen from Avalanche Lake as you enter the Trap Dike
[Hide Photo] Location of route as seen from Avalanche Lake as you enter the Trap Dike