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Millennial Ego
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
Routes in Joe's Garage
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Anonymous Hedgehog T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Anything for 50 Bucks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Arachnophobia T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Astro Beeline T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Astro-Boogie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Astroboy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Astroboy Direct T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Black Knight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bone Machine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bullwhip days T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Bullwhip Days Direct T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Cancel Culture T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Catholic Girls T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Central Scrutinizer, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Check Your Prostate T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Chewbacca T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Dinah Moe Humm T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Gumby Roof T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Hierarchy T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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It Takes Two To Trundle T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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It's a Way of Life T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Jack in a Box T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jackpot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Jacuzzi T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Mammalian Protuberances T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Millennial Ego T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mon Premier French Kiss T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Perfect T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pizza T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Polaris T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rock Opera T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Scorched T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Shredded Wheat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Skywalker T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snakepeel T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Solstice T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Some Enchanted Offwidth T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sticky Fingers T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sweepstakes T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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Telefunken U-47 T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Think Pure Thoughts T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Valley Girls T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 45.43989, -66.29255 |
| FA: | F. Côté, E. Sloan 2019 |
| Page Views: | 608 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Francois Cote on Oct 27, 2019 |
| Admins: | Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes |
Access Issue: This area is subject to the Ascent NB access agreement with CFB Gagetown. ascentnb.com/cfb-sign-in/
Details
Description
Climb Rock Opera to where you would clip the bolt but instead, traverse right, clipping a different bolt on the way to the first pitch anchor of Mon Premier French Kiss. Make a few moves up the corner then break right onto the triangular shaped face (b). Turn the corner and make your way up (b) to a diagonal finger crack. Follow the crack up and left with very poor feet directly above the lip of the arch. One final tricky slab (b) takes you to the anchor.
This climb will test your footwork! Really great movement throughout.
Good rope management (lots of long runners) will allow you to do this route in one pitch. Alternatively it wouldn't be a bad idea to climb it in 2 pitches by stopping at the anchor for Mon Premier French Kiss. This would make managing rope drag much easier and wouldn't change the grade. (pitch 1 being 5.8-5.9 and pitch 2 5.12b)
Variation: Climb the first pitch of Mon Premier French Kiss and link into Milennial Ego for an incredible and more sustained pitch!
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