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Bloody Big Toe

5.7, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2 from 2 votes
FA: Scott and Jana Unice
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Dry Canyon > Mammoth Wall

Description

Climbs mostly large positive edges with the occasional side pull or gaston and even some undercling/lieback at the finish. Rock seemed mostly solid enough to pull on. Make sure you belayer (and spectators) are to the left (uphill) of the route for their safety.

CAUTION: The final feature sounds  VERY HOLLOW! Make sure there is nobody (especially your belayer) in the fall line from the anchor. It's the flake that you pull on in an undercling/lieback for the last few moves, and then you stand on it when working at the anchor. It's definitely not confidence-inspiring doing the undercling/lieback moves or  standing on it. If this came loose it could easily kill anybody below and maybe even you if it lands on your rope on the way down.

Location

21st bolted line from the left (North) end of Mammoth wall. 4th bolted line from the right (South) end.

The top anchors are about 80 ft north of the south end. There are some rocks set in cement along the edge of the cliff just north of the anchors. It's the 3rd anchor North of the south end (as of 11/2019, anyway).

Protection

6 bolts to Fixe Ring Anchor and Bolted Chain.