All Locations > Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Dry Canyon > Mammoth Wall

Bloody Big Toe

Name: Bloody Big Toe
Rating: 1.7

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Routes in Mammoth Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bloody Big Toe S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bolts to Baghdad S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	C4. S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Curry chicken S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Divine Intervention S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Habib roohi S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hands in socks S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hep you S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Lowe Route, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Merciful Passing S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Pipe Bombs Away S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Rock Shaza S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Semperfi S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, 60 ft (18 m)
FA:	Scott and Jana Unice
Page Views:	491 total · 13/month
Shared By:	s phantom on Oct 25, 2019 · Updates
Admins:	Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Climbs mostly large positive edges with the occasional side pull or gaston and even some undercling/lieback at the finish. Rock seemed mostly solid enough to pull on. Make sure you belayer (and spectators) are to the left (uphill) of the route for their safety.

CAUTION: The final feature sounds VERY HOLLOW! Make sure there is nobody (especially your belayer) in the fall line from the anchor. It's the flake that you pull on in an undercling/lieback for the last few moves, and then you stand on it when working at the anchor. It's definitely not confidence-inspiring doing the undercling/lieback moves or standing on it. If this came loose it could easily kill anybody below and maybe even you if it lands on your rope on the way down.

Location

21st bolted line from the left (North) end of Mammoth wall. 4th bolted line from the right (South) end.

The top anchors are about 80 ft north of the south end. There are some rocks set in cement along the edge of the cliff just north of the anchors. It's the 3rd anchor North of the south end (as of 11/2019, anyway).

Protection

6 bolts to Fixe Ring Anchor and Bolted Chain.

First bolt is almost 20' of the deck. It's easy 5th class to get there, but not a great landing if you fall. Also not easily reachable via suck clip.

Remaining bolts are spaced 6-8 ft and have solid stances for clipping.

Top Rope / TRS Setup ?

Is setting up TR/TRS possible? Yes

Is it worth the effort? Probably not.

You have a few options with a standard 60m rope.

1) From Hitchhikers top anchor.

Rapp down to Title/Stripling anchor, clip in direct, pull rope and reset rappel from here. Rapp to this routes anchor, clip in direct, pull rope, set up to rope, rappel to base.

2) Rapp starting from Habib/Merciful Top Anchor

Rapp down to Habib/Merciful pitch 1 anchor, clip in direct, pull rope and reset rappel from here. Rapp to this routes anchor, clip in direct, pull rope, set up to rope, rappel to base.

If you're setting up TRS and plan to climb/aid/ascend all the way back to the top, you'll need 2 ropes. You'll leave your first rope tied in at the top anchor, then tie in your 2nd rope up at the mid-wall anchor of the neighboring route, then lower and set a directional piece or do amid-rope tie-in at this route's anchor.