Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Scott and Jana Unice|
|Page Views:||491 total · 13/month|
|Shared By:||s phantom on Oct 25, 2019 · Updates|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane|
CAUTION: The final feature sounds VERY HOLLOW! Make sure there is nobody (especially your belayer) in the fall line from the anchor. It's the flake that you pull on in an undercling/lieback for the last few moves, and then you stand on it when working at the anchor. It's definitely not confidence-inspiring doing the undercling/lieback moves or standing on it. If this came loose it could easily kill anybody below and maybe even you if it lands on your rope on the way down.
The top anchors are about 80 ft north of the south end. There are some rocks set in cement along the edge of the cliff just north of the anchors. It's the 3rd anchor North of the south end (as of 11/2019, anyway).
6 bolts to Fixe Ring Anchor and Bolted Chain.
First bolt is almost 20' of the deck. It's easy 5th class to get there, but not a great landing if you fall. Also not easily reachable via suck clip.
Remaining bolts are spaced 6-8 ft and have solid stances for clipping.
Is setting up TR/TRS possible? Yes
Is it worth the effort? Probably not.
You have a few options with a standard 60m rope.
1) From Hitchhikers top anchor.
Rapp down to Title/Stripling anchor, clip in direct, pull rope and reset rappel from here. Rapp to this routes anchor, clip in direct, pull rope, set up to rope, rappel to base.
2) Rapp starting from Habib/Merciful Top Anchor
Rapp down to Habib/Merciful pitch 1 anchor, clip in direct, pull rope and reset rappel from here. Rapp to this routes anchor, clip in direct, pull rope, set up to rope, rappel to base.
If you're setting up TRS and plan to climb/aid/ascend all the way back to the top, you'll need 2 ropes. You'll leave your first rope tied in at the top anchor, then tie in your 2nd rope up at the mid-wall anchor of the neighboring route, then lower and set a directional piece or do amid-rope tie-in at this route's anchor.