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Broken Dankles

5.7, Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: James Garrett and Cousin Jake Wayman, 19 May 2009
Utah > W Desert > White Rocks > African Gypsy

Description

I hadn‘t climbed this route since the FA. Out in White Rocks celebrating a birthday and the Bernese Girl thought it felt run out, so we added a few.
Both ascents and bolting sessions were from ground up. Despite a biting cold north wind on this North Facing route, it was very enjoyable . The name is partly derived from an early approach with Franziska in 2008 When she slipped and broke her ankle. She had never climbed it until now.
Pitch #1: Find a single belay/Rappel bolt (65 Birthday girl request:))at the base of the Route. Follow the crack/seam following bolts and the occasional placement ( probably bolts are sufficient) to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #2: Continue up the faint crack and then trend right to the arete and find another two-bolt belay. 5.6, 30m.

Pitch #3: May be linked. Follow the arete to the top of the route which is a saddle that peers down into Cool Aid Gully. 5.4, 25m.

Rappel the Route.

Location

The north facing Buttress right of African Gypsy.

Protection

QDs and a few small Camalots.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Gypsie on the left and dankles on the right
[Hide Photo] Gypsie on the left and dankles on the right
Near the top of the first pitch of Dankles.  8, maybe 9 bolts to the top of pitch 1
[Hide Photo] Near the top of the first pitch of Dankles. 8, maybe 9 bolts to the top of pitch 1