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Wildcat

5.12+, Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 4 from 4 votes
FA: Deb Wolfe, Jeff Schoen, 2003
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Glen Aulin Area > Grand Canyon of… > Grand Canyon of… > Wildcat Point
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Description

Description from Erik Lynch:

Pitch 1: 55m; Long moderate pitch up to the ledge. It follows the crack system left of the big corner. Great climbing, good rock, a little bit bushy. 5.10-

Pitch 2: 35m?; Bump the belay about 20 meters right to the base of possibly the best crack in Tuolumne, definitely not 12a. Burly climbing leads through the initial bulge (12a), to an easier section of hands. Rest up for the crack switch, hard liebacking, and final boulder problem waiting above. 5.12+?

Pitch 3: 20-30m; Move the belay back left, or just deal with some drag. Climb the obvious corner up to the base of the roof. Its dirty and bushy(some mandatory bush grabbing), but protects well. Keep an eye out for fixed pro. 5.10

Pitch 4: 20m; Wild climbing out the roof. Brian's comments say it all. Enjoy some seriously 3 dimensional movement! 5.11+

Pitch 5: 30m; Climb the double cracks up and right. The climbing is quite good, but not obvious and dirty, making the lead quite exciting. Belay below the large OW corner. 5.11

Pitch 6: 40m; Climb the easier OW to where it widens into a flare. Then it gets a bit real. Liebacking is the easiest - but wow, very scary. You eventually have to get into a lieback as the flare pinches down. The crux lies in getting back into the safety of the chimney. Once back in the safe womb of the mountain climb an unprotected chimney up to the summit

Location

Located on North Side of Grand Canyon, Sub Area, Wildcat Point. This route is on the left side of the golden and black streak domed that is reminiscent of the Bachar-Yerian area on Medlicott Dome.

Protection

Gear: A standard double rack tips to #3, with triples from .4 to #1. A good set of nuts, 6 Alpine Draws, 6 Quickdraws, 70m Rope

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Peter Croft on the crux of Wildcat.
[Hide Photo] Peter Croft on the crux of Wildcat.
The route is on the left side of this dome, and starts down and left of where this pic was taken. I believe you can see the roof that you traverse right under and upper corners.
[Hide Photo] The route is on the left side of this dome, and starts down and left of where this pic was taken. I believe you can see the roof that you traverse right under and upper corners.
Wildcat!
[Hide Photo] Wildcat!
Updated topo
[Hide Photo] Updated topo
Topo - * shows 12a here, a later topo I found shows 12b/c
[Hide Photo] Topo - * shows 12a here, a later topo I found shows 12b/c

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Prince
reno
 
[Hide Comment] Gave us a solid beating! Not worthy..

The first pitch is drawn incorrectly in the overview, it doesn't go up that main corner, but the crack system just left.

There is a variation to the 5.12 (12a lol) pitch that goes at 11b. It is the obvious 2-3" splitter crack that leads to a double handcrack feature higher. Just right of the main corner. It is the obvious line you see when you top out the first pitch. "Jimbo's Direct" - Jim Herson.

When you wonder why the FAists skipped this awesome pitch, walk way around to the right and you'll see a real crack from god. Makes Blues Riff look like a boulder problem. If inclined, you can TR this pitch after climbing the 11b variation (with some shenanigans). Then you also don't need a quadruple rack to climb the route. In this case, bring a full set of doubles from tiny to #3. One #4 optional

Higher up, well, I was certainly not prepared for the challenge is all I can say. Just one comment, when you see the roof pitch up close for the first time, you may think, huh, I have no idea how to climb that. Don't worry, because you're actually only looking at the easy part. It would still be relatively easy to bail before starting this pitch, maybe not so much after. Something to perhaps consider.

It was pretty easy to find Brandon's rap route from the top, just stay low and head left. Aug 31, 2020
Lucas Barth
Moab, UT
  5.12b/c
[Hide Comment] Topo overlay corrected based on Brian's comment and 11b variation drawn in yellow. Mar 30, 2021
EricLynch
  5.12+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Wow! What a route... I have wanted to climb this thing for years and it sure did not disappoint. There were some dirty sections, and plenty of heads up climbing, but it felt safe over all. Being so steep and exposed, this route felt like climbing up on El Cap. Which is fitting since Wildcat Point was originally named, Tuolumne El Capitan.

Gear: A standard double rack tips to #3, with triples from .4 to #1. A good set of nuts, 6 Alpine Draws, 6 Quickdraws, 70m Rope

Pitch 1: 55m; Long moderate pitch up to the ledge. It follows the crack system left of the big corner. Great climbing, good rock, a little bit bushy. 5.10-

Pitch 2: 35m?; Bump the belay about 20 meters right to the base of possibly the best crack in Tuolumne, definitely not 12a. Burly climbing leads through the initial bulge (12a), to an easier section of hands. Rest up for the crack switch, hard liebacking, and final boulder problem waiting above. 5.12+?

Pitch 3: 20-30m; Move the belay back left, or just deal with some drag. Climb the obvious corner up to the base of the roof. Its dirty and bushy(some mandatory bush grabbing), but protects well. Keep an eye out for fixed pro. 5.10

Pitch 4: 20m; Wild climbing out the roof. Brian's comments say it all. Enjoy some seriously 3 dimensional movement! 5.11+

Pitch 5: 30m; Climb the double cracks up and right. The climbing is quite good, but not obvious and dirty, making the lead quite exciting. Belay below the large OW corner. 5.11

Pitch 6: 40m; Climb the easier OW to where it widens into a flare. Then it gets a bit real. Liebacking is the easiest but wow, very scary. You eventually have to get into a lieback as the flare pinches down. The crux lies in getting back into the safety of the chimney. Once back in the safe womb of the mountain climb an unprotected chimney up to the summit

Descent beta from Brian's comments are spot on. The first rap is on a pine tree. Very quick and clean rappels back to the ground, Thanks Brandon! Aug 26, 2021