Type: Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1000 ft (303 m)
FA: 08/1953 Koontz/Perry/Peters/Wallerstein/Schmitz
Page Views: 587 total · 16/month
Shared By: Richard Shore on Oct 21, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker -, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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The North Face route ascends the prominent couloir up the center of the peak. According to the Secor guide, the first ascent was climbed almost entirely on rock and avoided the snow and ice by crossing back and forth onto the rock walls. In heavier snow years the couloir lasts into fall and transforms into beautiful blue alpine ice (50 degrees). A classy topout through a natural bridge feature lands you almost directly on the summit.

Your descent will depend on which approach you took - if headed back towards Lake Italy or Cox Col, descend the loose class-2 south slopes. If heading back towards Second Recess, descend the class-2 Northwest ridge aka "Glacier Route". Try and enjoy yourself while out here - this is one of the longest approaches to any Sierra ice climb.


North Face of Mt Gabb. A very long walk from anywhere. See main page for approach options.


Ice screws, pickets, and a light rock rack depending on comfort and conditions.