Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Used Sex Toys

5.8+, Trad, 45 ft (14 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 32 votes
FA: Josh Glantz, Amber Michaelis; 2019.
Washington > Central Region > Frenchman Coule… > Echo Basin > Kotick Memorial Wall

Description

Climb a surprisingly clean crack using mostly thin hands and tips, with ample feet throughout. The crack widens as you go up. Mantle onto the ledge and finish right, at the chains of Falsies.

It wouldn't be Vantage without a few loose flakes, so be careful what you pull on; some will eventually rip off.

Location

Thin hands + finger crack immediately to the left of the bolted Falsies  route.

Protection

Gear to 3.5" (maybe leave the small nuts behind); consider doubles of #2. Shares chain anchor with Falsies.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Crack in center of photo
[Hide Photo] Crack in center of photo

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gosh Glance
Seattle, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This crack isn't in the 4th edition of the guidebook, it's not here on MP, so although it's been led before, I'm going to name it (especially after cleaning it).

Also, the only mention of this crack in the ticks for Falsies is on top rope. A member of their party led Falsies and they bailed, opting to TR this crack instead.

[Edited after reading Kyle's comment below] Oct 21, 2019
Kyle Elliott
Granite falls
[Hide Comment] I don't know the FA information but it's definitely been led before, I belayed my buddy up it over 5 years ago, and I have seen others on it. I think some of the ticks for falsies mention climbing this route as well. I'm always hesitant to claim a FA in places like vantage, with it's history full of wild climbers (like Bill Robbins) running around in the 80's and 90's onsight soloing all the cracks they could find. Wide in particular. Oct 21, 2019
Crystal Collins
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] We did this for some gear placement practice with the rope set up from climbing Falsies. I wouldn’t want to try it as a new leader, but mostly because the cracks are so funky... you think you have a good placement, and then pop! Out comes the cam. The holds are all super positive though - TR’d that and Falsies and this felt way easier. Oct 17, 2021
Gosh Glance
Seattle, WA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Crystal, this route is definitely not ideal for a new leader. I'd highly recommend fully extending all your pieces on Vantage's more uneven cracks like this one. It will minimize walking in undulating and jagged cracks. Also a looser belay will minimize upward tension on your gear. Hope you still had a good time! Oct 17, 2021
Crystal Collins
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] GG - I did lose a cam at Zig Zag by overcamming it (thankfully not one I was upset about), so I was being way more cautious the next day. We climb at Vantage so much, and did our trad course out there so it's been good to practice in cracks that aren't "perfect" so we can really figure out good placements. I do like that this one can be easily TR'd for placement practice though, and I thought it was such a fun climb that I'd happily repeat it to really get the gear down pat. Oct 18, 2021
Mitchell McAuslan
Spokane, WA
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Would be a good first trad lead. Nov 3, 2025