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5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
| Type: | Sport, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 36.27379, -115.65841 |
| FA: | Leo Henson, 1995 |
| Page Views: | 564 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ronnie Miller on Oct 21, 2019 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Justin Johnsen |
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The beginning of the trailhead canyon trail and parking lot are closed until Fall 2027: fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…
The Hood and The Balcony can technically be accessed via the North Loop trail, though this would be a ludicrously long approach.
The Hood and The Balcony can technically be accessed via the North Loop trail, though this would be a ludicrously long approach.
Severe flood damage in August of 2023 has caused closures on parts of the mountain.
Latest update as of May 2025:
fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…
~* Open / Accessible *~
ROUTE 158 CRAGS
All Open (Starter Crag, Robbers Roost, Glasshouse, etc.)
CATHEDRAL ROCK AREA / SOUTH LOOP
The Dark Tower
Palantine Wall
Chert Locker
The Chapel
Sonar Wall
The Belltower
Sound Garden
Walden
Weakness Wall
Cathedral Rock N Face
BLUE SKY BLUFF / PIRATES COVE
Open
THE HOOD / THE BALCONY
Access from N Loop Trail only
!!! Closed !!!
MARY JANE AREA
Imagination Wall
Fast Food Crag
Universal Wall
Mary Jane Cliff
White Pine Cliff
Yellow Pine Cliff
Walla Walla Wash
Nueva Esperanza
Latest update as of May 2025:
fs.usda.gov/r04/humboldt-to…
~* Open / Accessible *~
ROUTE 158 CRAGS
All Open (Starter Crag, Robbers Roost, Glasshouse, etc.)
CATHEDRAL ROCK AREA / SOUTH LOOP
The Dark Tower
Palantine Wall
Chert Locker
The Chapel
Sonar Wall
The Belltower
Sound Garden
Walden
Weakness Wall
Cathedral Rock N Face
BLUE SKY BLUFF / PIRATES COVE
Open
THE HOOD / THE BALCONY
Access from N Loop Trail only
!!! Closed !!!
MARY JANE AREA
Imagination Wall
Fast Food Crag
Universal Wall
Mary Jane Cliff
White Pine Cliff
Yellow Pine Cliff
Walla Walla Wash
Nueva Esperanza
Description
Starts left of Baby Got Back with first bolt 20 to 30 feet up on a ledge. However, starting on Baby Got Back to the 4th bolt and then traversing up left to the 2nd bolt of the route seems better. Climb fairly easy ground to a good rest/jug flake and then launch into some thin side pulls. Once you gain the downward pointing tooth trend up and left to a chain anchor on a ledge.
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