Avg: 4 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches|
|FA:||David Harrington and Dana J Patton, Fall 2019|
|Page Views:||782 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||David Harrington on Oct 16, 2019|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Pitch 1: 5.12, 60 ft; 6 bolts plus gear
Start at the base of the detached pillar and gain its top (if you are wanting to jam cracks, better do it here). A nice crack on the right gobbles gear until the first bolt. A beautiful sequence of moves gets you to the hanging belay under the roof.
Pitch 2: 5.11, 100ft; gear
Turn the roof to the right of the belay and progress up the prominent crack. Decently sustained climbing leads to a mantle on a ramp. Climb up and left on this ramp (there are gear opportunities if you choose not to run it out) until you reach the belay ledge at the bottom of a lettuce-covered right dihedral.
Pitch 3: 5.10 or 5.11, 120ft; 2 bolts plus gear
Traverse right on the ledge and around the corner. Continue up the short corner into an obvious intermittent crack, providing ample pro. Continue up the crack (5.10) until reaching a ledge and trend right on easier ground through a series of ledges. More thin cracks get you to a sloped ledge with a left and right exit. The left exit is easier (5.10), with the direct exit (through the thin seam to a large chockstone) being harder (5.11) on small gear. Once you’ve topped this section, you’re at the base of the headwall on its right side. Clip the two bolts to your left while climbing through overhanging jugs on the right. Run it out a bit after the last bolt on easy terrain to the finish ledge.
Pitch 3 requires a 70m rope and relies on stretch to make it to Pitch 2’s anchor. Please knot your ropes.
Pitch 2 requires that you descend to the climber’s right and hook your rope in the prominent horn as you descend into the steep portion. You’ll need to start a swing in order to get to Pitch 1’s anchors due to the overhanging nature of the wall.