Type: Sport, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Drew Spaulding, Mark Miner
Page Views: 219 total · 10/month
Shared By: Drew Spaulding on Oct 14, 2019
Admins: Tao Techakanon, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing Banned Details
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Another 3-pitch classic! Pirate Dreams is the aqua colored line(#14) on the topo photo. Start on the ledge to the right of Gypsy Dance. Pitch 1 climbs steep pockets to a thin crux before easing off for 10 meters. Climb the steep headwall above past a 2 bolt crux before the anchor(5.11a). Pitch 2 is fun climbing with a tough 5.11b/c crux that pulls out a steep cavelike roof about mid pitch. Pitch 3 follows the good rock up and right for a long, fun 5.10c pitch.

Location

Start just right of Blackbeard and Gypsy Dance on the ledge above the grey slab.

Protection

Glue-in titanium bolts

Photos

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