Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m)
FA: Mark Sprague, Amy Colburn, Bob Cartwright and Dave Curry
Page Views: 594 total · 24/month
Shared By: M Sprague on Oct 14, 2019
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route traverses a thin seam to the left off Mountain Minor to gain the obvious wide vertical crack above the big roof. It is such an obvious feature, I couldn't believe nobody snagged it before. I ended up not doing the direct through the roof though, as there are a lot of big loose blocks there that seem like a potential house of cards to clean.

Climb the beginning of Mountain Minor, clipping the mid anchor and continuing up the cracked ramp out the right side of the alcove and up the beginning of the upper face until you get to just below the start of the hand crack. Look for a thin horizontal seam heading left and follow it (crux) to reach the wide hand/offwidth that takes you to the top and a bolted anchor.

With a 70m rope you can just lower to the ground (watch the end!), otherwise make use of the mid anchor for getting down.

A variation can be done starting on Yeti Beats, but you would want to bring your second up and both lower/rap straight down from there due to the extra length. 

Location

Starts about 30 feet left of the landmark arete of Bigfoot, up a slightly awkward right facing corner that gets you up to the alcove under the big roof.

Protection

Cams to #4, triples of the gold #2. I think I used two gray .4s (one for the traverse along with a small totem and #2 wire) and purple .5s, nuts and a bunch of slings. Round out the corners of the zig of the traverse well with slingage or you will have bad drag at the top of the offwidth.
70m rope needed (watch the ends!) unless you use the mid anchor.

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