PRINT: Rock Climb Extinction, Portland & The Gorge

Extinction

5.11a, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),

Avg: 2.7 from 15 votes
FA: Walter Anyan/David Sowerby Summer '95
Oregon > Portland & The… > Madrone Wall > Shining Wall

Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Closure Details

The park closes on February 1st and remains closed until July 15th to protect nesting peregrine falcons. Their annual nesting spot is on the Shining Wall, though they can be heard year-round. Please respect the closure and DO NOT CLIMB AT MADRONE WALL BETWEEN FEB 1st AND JULY 15th. Updates to the status of the park will posted on Clackamas County Park's website - clackamas.us/parks/madronew… - and on the Madrone Wall Preservation Committee facebook page - facebook.com/madronewall/.

Description

Variation to Paleontologist that splits left after the first two bolts following the bolt line up the left face of the arete. Steep climbing down low leads to some fun technical climbing above.

Protection

Bolts + Anchor (Mussy Hooks)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Extinction

Blue line is Extinction (splitting left after the 2nd bolt) Yellow line is the Paleontologist finish.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C h a d

Fun climb! This one feels tough for a 5.10. Like Lost Boys mountainproject.com/route/1…, maybe this is an example of the elusive 5.10e?

Chad Nov 10, 2019

d sowerby

Hmmm... I think Walter and I put this up. Damn that old-age memory thing. Jan 7, 2020

d sowerby

FA Walter Anyan/David Sowerby Summer '95
The 2nd and 3rd bolt placements weren't ideal due to hollow-sounding rock Apr 6, 2021

Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR

5.10d

Can you protect between the second and third bolts? Seems like a fall near the third bolt could be quite bad... Nov 11, 2021

Nick Pappas
Portland, OR

Patrick, I remember TRing this and thinking that hanging a shoulder length runner from the 3rd bolt would allow you to clip partway through the crux, but before the hardest moves. Seemed reasonable at the time but haven't had a chance to get back and actually test it. Nov 18, 2021

J P
Portland, OR

Like Tom mentioned in his tick, a nut between second and third bolt would ease the psych factor, but it’s juggy terrain even if it’s run out.
Put a longer dogbone quickdraw on the third bolt; shorter draws rub the ropeside carabiner on the lip below and will absolutely hold the gate open.
Some strong moves moreso than delicate but a really fun climb.
Any beta spray for the finish? Felt like it has to go right as for the finish to Paleontologist but maybe I was just too gassed to go straight up. Jan 17, 2022

Greg Lee

Pretty fun climb! There aren't that many solid jug hauls in the Portland area. Nov 14, 2022