Type: Trad, TR, 75 ft
FA: John Kelbel & Jim Heine
Page Views: 28 total · 28/month
Shared By: John Kelbel on Oct 8, 2019
Admins: Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

A spectacular fun airy route, this line provides a variety of climbing starting with a short off width, followed by a beautiful face that leads to sustained climbing on overhanging jugs.  This line was first established on top rope, before realizing there was sufficient gear placement for it to be a good trad route for 5.9 climbers, who can endure the long upper section of sustained overhangs and has the experience to run a fairly straight line of gear on a wandering route.

Climb the off-width for about 15' until you can step left onto a 3" wide ledge.  Traverse the ledge left about 7 feet and when it peters out carefully step up and slightly left.  Move up the face to the center of the first 18" deep roof.  Note the block in the center of roof with a wide to narrow crack behind it, this is fairly secure  but perhaps not secure enough for a camming unit.  There is good solid gear out to the right end of the roof which is easy to access.  Pull over the center of the 18" roof and climb around the left side of the large white roof.  Follow the very short open book / corner crack straight up to the roof above and traverse out right on a horizontal shelf, there is a bit of broken rock here which can be avoided.  Climb over a protruding finger flake pointing to left.  I wouldn't trust any gear placed against this flake, however there is a spot for solid gear slightly above it.  Shoot straight up to the upper roof and work your way out to the lip.  A long reach over the final lip gives access to another protruding finger flake pointing to the right, once surmounting this flake your on top.  Whether top roping or leading keep your belayer out to the right side of the climb due to rockfall potential.

Location

Center of the North East Area, to climbers left of "Alluring Fire".  The most predominate feature is the off width crack about 8' off the ground that starts with a brief flared chimney.  This is a few feet left of a large left facing corner with a tree at it's base.

Protection

Standard rack plus a large #4 Camelot and two #3 Camelots is useful.  It's possible to run a pretty straight rope with minimal rope drag using slings / runners.

Photos

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