The Cholula Bottle
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.91966, -111.83995 |
| FA: | Derek Field & John Burcham (Oct 2019) |
| Page Views: | 2,043 total · 28/month |
| Shared By: | Derek Field on Oct 7, 2019 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
Description
This route starts by scaling a pillar of rock that is shaped and coloured like a bottle of Cholula hot sauce. It then charges straight up a clean, steep slab to the summit ridge of the Earthship. The two pitches could not be more different.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 110 feet): Climb the right-facing corner on the right side of the Cholula Bottle. Four bolts protect stemming down low, then gear takes you up through a mudcrack and into a funky crux bulge. Near the top, a bolt protects a slab move. Boulder onto the bottle-cap, take a seat, and belay from the two-bolt chain anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10c, 100 feet): Climb the clean, steep slab past 11 bolts to a two-bolt chain anchor on the summit ridge.
Scramble 20 feet up easy ledges to the scenic panorama. You might continue north along the ridge to the summit with a 3rd class scramble and one short 5.8 pitch. If so, you can rappel Maiden Voyage.
Descent: Rappel the route with one 70m rope or two 60m ropes.



7 Comments