Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3 from 1
FA: Chris Gill & George Hurley, 1986
> WM: Kancamagus…
> Woodchuck Ledge
> 5. The Main Cliff
Seasonal Raptor Closure
The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemou…
The Root of All Evil and Pleistocene have the same first pitch. There are some spots on this route that require carful movement due to loose rock. Also, it doesn't appear to get much traffic, so the lichen up at the cracks was...distracting...
Normal rack, on the small side up to hands. Mostly finger sized. The crux isn't really protected for the second, so make sure they are confident at the grade and/or has some gear to ascend the rope in the event of a fall.
P1: To the right of Deadline there is a blocky buttress. On the right side of the blocky buttress, about 30' to the right of the Deadline corner, there is a blocky chimney/notch. Climb up the chimney to the top of the buttress or a bit further to the base of the slab on the second pitch. There is a tree belay at both spots. 80'-100'. 5.7
P2: Surmount the blocks to get to the base of the slab with a single bolt in it if you not already there. Make careful moves to a good stance for clipping the bolt (the moves to the bolt can be protected via a nut in the crack to the right; however, you may want to retrieve this piece after clipping the bolt). Traverse up and left (crux) past the bolt to a weakness in the overlap. Continue up and left following a series of cracks with terrific exposure. Gain the notch above. We set a belay anchor in the notch, but most parties probably belay from the top. 140'. 5.10c
Decent: We rapped down from an existing rap station about 50' to climbers left of the top out using a 70m rope. That took us to a ledge that we down-climbed a bit to another rap station that brought us down over Sledgehammer. Doubles would have helped with the rap.
Find the corner below the large crack on Deadline. About 30' to the right of this corner, there is a blocky chimney. Start there.
Standard rack to hands. Slings for tree belay.