Avg: 3 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 240 ft (73 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Chris Gill & George Hurley, 1986|
|Page Views:||420 total · 15/month|
|Shared By:||Tim McGivern on Oct 7, 2019|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall|
Normal rack, on the small side up to hands. Mostly finger sized. The crux isn't really protected for the second, so make sure they are confident at the grade and/or has some gear to ascend the rope in the event of a fall.
P1: To the right of Deadline there is a blocky buttress. On the right side of the blocky buttress, about 30' to the right of the Deadline corner, there is a blocky chimney/notch. Climb up the chimney to the top of the buttress or a bit further to the base of the slab on the second pitch. There is a tree belay at both spots. 80'-100'. 5.7
P2: Surmount the blocks to get to the base of the slab with a single bolt in it if you not already there. Make careful moves to a good stance for clipping the bolt (the moves to the bolt can be protected via a nut in the crack to the right; however, you may want to retrieve this piece after clipping the bolt). Traverse up and left (crux) past the bolt to a weakness in the overlap. Continue up and left following a series of cracks with terrific exposure. Gain the notch above. We set a belay anchor in the notch, but most parties probably belay from the top. 140'. 5.10c
Decent: We rapped down from an existing rap station about 50' to climbers left of the top out using a 70m rope. That took us to a ledge that we down-climbed a bit to another rap station that brought us down over Sledgehammer. Doubles would have helped with the rap.