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Unknown Tower – Four by Four Fire

5.8 C1, Trad, Aid, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.2 from 5 votes
FA: Wolfe, Marsters
Utah > Southeast Utah > Grand County > State Highway 313 > Random - Unsorted
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas. DetailsDrop down

Description

This is a great, short tower with practically zero approach. If you have an hour or two to kill, this is an ideal choice. Even though this route is southwest facing, the route is shaded all day.

I didn't notice the other route up the tower until we summited the tower and found a single rappel bolt (rusted pins are very hard to spot from the ground). I would have probably attempted the other route first and thus the unknown tower name. That other route begins on the southeast side of the tower and veers to east face. It also appears someone attempted a thin aid line on the east face but bailed and took their bolt hanger (noticed on the rappel). History and names would be interesting.

Four by Four Fire begins on the southwest side of the tower between the wall and the tower. Aid through two bolts to a roof. Clean aid through the roof and then climb easy but run-out face (5.6) to the top. Rappel 80 feet northeast down the tower – now a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

From the US191 & UT313 intersection (same road used for Canyonlands), drive 2.3 miles southwest on UT313 to a BLM gate on the left side (south) side of the road. If you have 2WD, park here. With 4WD, continue another ~0.5 mile up the sandy road/wash until the tower is visible on the left side of the wash. Another alternative approach for 2WD is to park 2.6 miles up UT313 and hike less than a quarter mile south-southeast to the tower (harder to spot from UT313). Tower location 38.6469, -109.7216.

Protection

Single BD C4 #0.5-4

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Burnt. Things you see in the desert.
[Hide Photo] Burnt. Things you see in the desert.
The Tower
[Hide Photo] The Tower

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ben Kiessel
Durango, CO
[Hide Comment] Did this route free on top rope at about 5.10+. It’s hard to grade since it’s such a short bouldery crux.
I also top roped the other route that starts on the SE side. I’d say it’s probably 5.10. Both were super fun. Feb 6, 2021
slim

  5.8 C1 R
[Hide Comment] The slippery sandy runout upper sections seemed really out of character with the well protected lower section. You really don't want to blow the top section or there is a good chance you would land in the jagged boulders at the base. If you are soloing a 5 would be handy to get you better lined up to start the free climbing. Oct 22, 2022
Joe Stern
Moab, Utah
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I led this route free on 4/7/2023 (FFA?), and I think Ben's assessment of the rating is spot on. For gear, I placed a 1, a 0.2, and then a pair of 4s to protect the final easy runout. Fun, shady, close-to-town tower with a very mellow approach. Apr 10, 2023