Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Rune Harejo Jensen, Charlie Long
Page Views: 73 total · 33/month
Shared By: Charlie Long on Sep 30, 2019
Admins: Phil Lauffen, Michael Sullivan

You & This Route


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Description

La Vida Joika follows the most obvious crack system from the bottom to the top of the upper Lyngvaer wall.  The route is characterized by sustained physical movement on good quality rock much steeper than typical Lofoten routes and very good protection.  2 steep trad approach pitches lead to the exposed bolted crux pitch.
Pitch 1 5.11+  Technical stemming pitch, small, good gear 30m. Bolted belay. Scramble to base of P2
Pitch 2 5.11 The enduro pitch 50m. Bolted belay on top of pillar (this pitch is recommended as one pitch ledge to ledge but can be split at the intermediate rap anchor, hanging belay)
Pitch 3 5.12-  Technical slab work up the ramp to the top of the wall.  Bring micro cams for after the last bolt 20m.  Bolted belay
Rap the route with 1 60m rope in 4 rappels.  
Recommended not to belay higher than top of Pitch 2 as the belay on top of the pillar is amazing and the lead climber can be easily lowered back to the belay instead of belaying on top.

Location

From parking hike up the creek (hard to see start of trail - listen for the water) When the creek gets to the power lines countour the small moraine to the right and directly up to the base of lower wall.  From the lower wall hike up directly up through a wide open small trees and steep moss up the ramp to the wall.  P1 is the obvious Left facing corner above the small roof.  You can leave your packs here 15-20mins from parking.

Protection

Purple and Green C3, 2x green alien to #4 camalot, 1x #5 & 6 camalot for P2, quickdraws, nuts, 60m rope

Photos

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