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The Project

5.11a/b R, Trad, TR, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Bill Doctorman
Alaska > Southeastern Al… > Skagway > 4 mile crag

Description

Started on this project too late on the season, got all the moves but never linked them clean. The placements look ok, first pro is after a big move at the start, if you botch it will be like 6 foot fall onto a dirt ledge. Move into the meat of it and onto the finger crack, some wire placements for the crux. Up top is pretty easy climbing and a few placements with varying pucker factor. Single bolt anchor, sits about 7-8 feet left of the Gray Dihedral anchors.

Location

Middle of offwidth crag

Protection

Small/medium cams, small nuts for the finger crack , single bolt, can go on TR

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Up the two small flakes then right up the finger crack
[Hide Photo] Up the two small flakes then right up the finger crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Bill D
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] This is one of my routes from sometime in winter of 2010. Glad someone else has gotten on it! I always thought it was around 5.11a, but I had been climbing my own routes for so long that I started to lose the ability to grade anything. I don't know of anyone else who has gotten on it since I put it up. Jan 8, 2020
Colton Andre
  5.11a/b R
[Hide Comment] Yeah you could be right Bill, I was having a lot of trouble with the a specific sequence about half the way up the finger crack, but the start and end are very easy so who knows, I never got a clean lead on gear or even a clean top on TR. This one is about 5-6 feet left of the single bolt. Jan 8, 2020
Bill D
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] This whole crag was one of my favorites to find when I lived up there. A project I started working on but never finished was to climb the dihedral to a crack that heads out horizontally to the right and follow it to the top. I did all the moves but couldn't link them clean on TR, so I never tried to lead it since the gear was so spicy. Awesome to see that the fin boulder got climbed, I always wanted to boulder it but didn't ever get on it for some reason. Jan 9, 2020