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Lemming Condition

5.10b, Trad, 58 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 9 votes
FA: Glenn Payan, 1996
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Malamute > Starr Wall
Warning Access Issue: Camping DetailsDrop down

Description

The crux is leaving the ledge before getting to the first bolt.  There is good gear around the corner in a crack if you place it high. A bit scruffy but good. A wider crack appears on the left followed by a thinner horizontal crack and then there are some slab moves and a scramble to the anchor.

Location

Climb to View Ledge by Gonch Pull, Neighbourhood Bully, Stephanie's Tears or Sorry John! . The climb starts off the right hand side of the ledge along the arete.

Protection

Mixed. 3 bolts. Standard rack to 3.5" (you could get by with gear to just 2"). Chains on two bolts for the anchor.