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PowerHead

5.6 PG13, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
FA: Dave Powers, Randy Garcia and Jon Sykes 2008
New Hampshire > WM: Kinsman Notch > 2. Lost River C… > 5. Lower Patina Wall

Description

START: A few feet right of the boulder on the dirt ledge, directly below a piton about 8 feet up. In 2019 there was one flat rock to stand on at the start.
NOTE: Listed as a "R/X" in the Sykes guidebook, the route was recently retro-bolted by the FA party.

P1 - Climb up to the pin (behind a hollow-sounding flake) , place optional gear just above and then move up and slightly leftish to the first bolt. Follow 2 more bolts to the (new-looking) chains.

Location

Start right of the mossy "SykoHead [ 5.7 R / X? ], just right of the moss and just right of the boulder on the ledge.  Originally I thought this route was "in" the moss/lichen but Jon assures me it climbs the face past the pin.

Protection

Draws and optional small-to-med cam(s)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

RW on the START of "PowerHead". The first piece is clipped to the piton.
[Hide Photo] RW on the START of "PowerHead". The first piece is clipped to the piton.
Higher up on PowerHead
[Hide Photo] Higher up on PowerHead
Pin at the START of "PowerHead"
[Hide Photo] Pin at the START of "PowerHead"

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Foss
Franconia, NH
 
[Hide Comment] Should be labeled a sport climb. Pin start is solid and bolts well spaced. Fun route and great rock. May 6, 2020
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] John....Maybe close to "sport", but in general I've never known Sykes (or Garcia, for that matter, although I only know "of"him and his routes) to put up a sport route. Glad you liked it ! May 6, 2020
Ian Saucy
Anchorage, AK
[Hide Comment] I don't think it deserves a PG13 rating imo. I think bolts have been updated so it climbs much safer. There is a possible for a ground fall between 2nd and 3rd bolt but it's easy climbing. I tried to get a nut in but wasn't able to get it to set. An offset might have worked though. Used one piece of pro after the last bolt cuz why not. Fun route though May 31, 2022
Chris Graham
Bartlett, NH
 
[Hide Comment] The pin is no longer there. A .5 Camalot or its equivalent will do the trick. It was always nice clipping that pin at the start; now there is a bit more spice setting off. Still a great route. Oct 2, 2023