Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Sep 22, 2019
Page Views: 292 total · 13/month
Shared By: Gunkiemike on Sep 23, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

I'm going to use this one entry to describe 5 routes on this wall. Why? Maybe because I don't want to create 5 separate entries, or maybe - given that this is the closest of the non-slab crags on the hill - it's to preserve a bit more sense of adventure (for the hoardes of climbers that are sure to come here...yea, right!). Anyway, there are two 5.4 routes that start at the left end of the face: "Moss No Mas" and "Ramp It Up". Both are about 70 feet and have good protection. MNM goes up the left-facing corner, finishing up a short crack. RIU takes the obvious line up the sidewalk-width ramp. Walk 30 feet R along the base and step up about 5 feet onto a higher ledge. Two lines leave from some broken rock here: "Amp It Up" (5.9 TR) climbs a hand/finger crack up the sheer face; "Scamper" (5.8 TR) takes the prominent V groove. Further R along the base there's another, larger step up. Walk around to the R end of this and "Dude, Where's My Car... Keys?" (5.7 G) starts about 8 feet left of the maple tree growing just a few inches from the wall. Vertical cracks lead to a series of ledges in the right-facing corner. Good climbing but a tree on one of the ledges is annoying.

Location

This cliff is an easy 150 yd walk E/SE from the base of the Slab. Look for it at the bottom of the open, fern-filled glen.

Protection

A rack to 3" with a few extra mid-size pieces will suffice. The rock in the middle of the face leaves something to be desired quality-wise. Leading either of the top-rope lines described here should be undertaken only with great care.  40' of static rope would be useful for setting a toprope above the steeper cracks.

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