Type: Trad, Alpine, 1000 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III
FA: September 4, 2019 Andy Stephen and Ian McEleney
Page Views: 99 total · 35/month
Shared By: Ian McEleney on Sep 11, 2019
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Mostly fun moderate climbing with a few steeper crack cruxes. We were pleasantly surprised by the generally good rock quality.

1. 30m 5.6 Climb up a wide dike to a low angled chossy area.

2. 40+m 5.7+ Step out left and follow flakes and edges up the left wall of the corner/ramp. Eventually, trend right and belay at a small stance in the corner with a good anchor near some flakes. This is just above a triangle ledge in the corner with no anchor.

3. 35m 5.8 Move out left around the bulge on good holds. Climb a right-facing corner to a headwall, then step around to the left again, trending left and up to a decent-sized ledge in a blocky area with plants.

4. 55m 5.7 Climb up a V groove for a minute then move right to regain the crest. Continue up moderate ground before eventually accessing a sandy ledge system on the left (gully) side.

5. 45m 5.9 Climb a set of steep cracks. Above this continue up on the crest, past a fun section of 5.8 crack and face to a belay on a blocky ledge below a steep wall.

6. 30m 5.9 Climb a pair of cracks (fingers and OW) to a roof. Step right and follow a finger-to-hand crack to the arete. Climb easier terrain until you can walk into a chossy notch. Belay here.

7. 30m 5.5 You're trying to bypass the small tower above you. Pass through the notch, scramble down a bit, along, and back up again until you're on a ledge system.

8. 30m 5.5-5.7 Ascend moderate but loose ground to the right, back to the ridge crest. Belay on a rocky ledge below some reddish rock.

9. 50m 5.8 Climb a corner just right of the prow. Belay on a ledge under an offwidth with some blocks in it.

10. 20m 5.7 Traverse left, following a crack onto the prow. Then continue up to the top.

Location

The summit area of Seven Gables is divided by a couloir on the east. This route climbs the buttress that defines the right side of that couloir. Start in an area of more orange rock.

Protection

Stoppers. Double set of cams from 0.3 to 3, one each 0.2 and 4.

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