Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 117 total · 49/month
Shared By: Jim Lawyer on Sep 10, 2019
Admins: Jim Lawyer

You & This Route


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Description

An amazing route with three cruxes, each more difficult than the last. It was the first 5.13 FA by a woman in the Adirondack Park.

As a matter of trivia, the first 5.13 in the Adirondack Park was Salad Days (Poke-O, 1988, Dave Lanman), 31 years previous to this ascent. The first 5.13 in the country was 11 years prior to that -- The Phoenix, or maybe Phlogiston if you include toprope ascents.

Climb the flake to the jug on top, then crimp up the face (V4) to the left end of the rail. Hand traverse 20' right with poor feet, then make a hard move (V5) up to a thin crack in a left-facing, right-leaning ramp. Move more easily up to a stance below a tips-crack in a bulging headwall. Climb the crack, easy at first, then past a section where the crack pinches closed (V7). Continue up the crack about 15' more, then move left across a slab to a fixed anchor.

Location

About 80' left of Connecticut Yankee, at a chest-high, black, sculpted, left-facing, corner with a good jug on top. There is a rail about 15' up that shoots out right across a blank-ish wall.

Protection

Bolts. Fixed anchor.

Photos

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