Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
FA: Falkenstein, Rousek, and Bengston, 1985
Page Views: 462 total · 20/month
Shared By: Conor Clarke on Sep 8, 2019
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

The SuperTopo guidebook describes the crux first pitch as “technical, well-protected, and often overlooked,” which sounds about right.  Those looking for a more difficult start to the Sting, or some harder cragging pitches on Harlequin Dome, should give No Rock Nazis a try.      

P1 -- Thin, technical 11c climbing leads up past four bolts, finishing with a mantle onto the right-trending ramp.  (The first bolt is easy but committing to reach.  A .75 C4 will protect the initial moves.)  Follow the ramp delicately (a little scary but not too hard) until it connects with a thin finger crack with an old piton that leads more or less straight up to the anchors.  Seventy feet.  Fairly simple to lead and TR just this first pitch.  

P2 -- P2 starts quite far to the right of the P1 anchors, at another set of bolts. Traversing over to these other anchors did not look overly difficult.  While I haven’t climbed it, the second pitch follows 11b liebacking and face climbing with a mix of gear and bolts.  100 feet.  From there, the climb joins the Sting.

Location

See picture.  Look for four bolts left of By Hook or By Crook and right of Hoodwink.

Protection

Bolts and gear. Small nuts useful.

Photos