Start at the base of the sport route. Climb 10' towards the left-facing corner system leading into the first roof just left of the sport route. Place gear in roof, and follow the crack to the second roof system (first crux) with good gear. Tricky moves lead you to a no hands rest. Easy terrain leads to a finger crack. Follow finger crack until it disappears, and step left onto easy terrain with a no hands rest at the start of a short, 0.2 to 0.4, finger crack corner system (the second crux). Climb a crack/corner till it ends, follow slopy, crimp rails to the large, horizontal crack system just below V-notch roof (the 3rd roof). Blast the V-notch roof into face climbing following the seam till it ends at the bulge. Continue straight up using slopy arete, a pocket, and blind reaches onto slopy holds until you hit the anchors ledge.
*** Two options to bail from direct variation: the first option is to start traversing right underneath the V-notch roof following the large horizontal crack to bolted anchors, approximately 20'. The second bail is 10' bellow bulge but after climbing the V-notch roof, traverse climber's left across slab to a right-facing corner. Continue up and slightly right till you hit the anchor.
Rack to a #1 plus #4 (a #3 works but is tricky); double C3s purple, green, and red; offset 00/0, 0/1 are helpful; a light set of RPs to size 5; and a few single slings and draws.
Bring double ropes to rap the route or use a Beal Escaper with a single rope.