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Via Vonbank

5.7 R, Trad, Alpine, 800 ft (242 m), 9 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: Bernardi, Sia 2004
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Lagazuoi , Fani… > Punte di Fanes… > Lagazuoi Grande

Description

Fairly consistent difficulty, variable rock quality, some difficulties with route finding.  Protection can be sparse and some belays are less than ideal. See Rushforth for pitch details.

The first four pitches climb steeply up grey rock, trending slightly left to reach a large yellow dihedral.  The first pitch in the dihedral moves right onto grey rock and then back left into the corner.  Pitch 6 starts at the right with minimal protection and then makes a long ledge traverse left to exit the dihedral and attain the grey face at left.  Three pitches up the grey rock lead to the walk off back down the Kaiserjager path.

Alternately, it is possible to continue up the grey face for a full rope length to a pin belay below the yellow roofs. From here one can easily traverse right to join the last three pitches of Via del Bucco Bassa.  These pitches are described in detail here as the standard book descriptions do not do them justice.  Based on the Rushforth pitch designations:

7. 5.8, 100'. The pitch starts at the base of a left-leaning chimney at a nice bolt belay.  Start up this and look for a steep undercling and pocket traverse right across yellow rock. (A fixed rope is hanging above the belay but do not climb directly to it.) The pitch finishes up a steep wide crack which becomes an arete, finishing on top of a massive pillar separated by two to three feet from yellow overhangs and a large hole behind.
8. 5.9, 60'. The standard description for this pitch is an easy traverse right under overhangs to a grassy ledge. It appears there has been some significant rockfall here as this is now an overhanging face start on loose rock with pockets for protection.  Move right towards the arete until a short sequence on overhanging rock allows escape to the grassy ledge and a fixed belay in a cave.
9. An easy ramp to the top.

It would be possible to rappel from the first 5 pitches or so but not desirable after that.

Location

From the Falzarego Pass car park follow the Kaiserjager path until directly below the face. World War I trenches and tunnels at the base mark the start just a few feet left of Via del Buco.  

Protection

Some fixed pins and threads. All belays have some gear. Bring a full rack.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Start of pitch 2, Via Vonbank.
[Hide Photo] Start of pitch 2, Via Vonbank.
Pitch 4 of Via Vonbank
[Hide Photo] Pitch 4 of Via Vonbank
End of pitch 7 traverse into Via del Buco.
[Hide Photo] End of pitch 7 traverse into Via del Buco.
Piccolo Lagazuoi South Face is the pyramid at far left.
[Hide Photo] Piccolo Lagazuoi South Face is the pyramid at far left.