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"SE Arete"

5.8, Trad, 165 ft (50 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
International > Europe > Italy > Dolomites > Cinque Torri Group > Torre Inglese

Description

I have climbed this arete twice now but I can find no written reference to it.  The start is at the very base of the SE arete and just feet from the start of Via Normale.  Little or no fixed gear or gear placements are visible from the ground (there are two pins) but placements appear just regularly enough and the rock is very compact and consistently featured.  You can climb it in either one or two pitches.  As two:

1. 5.8, 100'.  Start at the base of the arete, move right and then follow this face to a chain belay just below the pillar top.
2. 5.3, 65'.  Step right onto the arete to the anchors for Via Normale.  A couple bolts protect this.

Descend in two short single raps following or the Via Normale descent or reverse the arete to the base.

Location

SE corner of Torre Inglese

Protection

Standard rack of wires and cams (up to #4 will work). Tri-cams are good for the pockets.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down "pitch 1" from the rappel.  Pack marks the start.
[Hide Photo] Looking down "pitch 1" from the rappel. Pack marks the start.
Climber enjoying arete.
[Hide Photo] Climber enjoying arete.
Multiple anchors on top of Torre Inglese, Tofana di Rozes behind.
[Hide Photo] Multiple anchors on top of Torre Inglese, Tofana di Rozes behind.
View down Torre Inglese arete with team on Via Normale.
[Hide Photo] View down Torre Inglese arete with team on Via Normale.
Torre Inglese at center.
[Hide Photo] Torre Inglese at center.