Type: Trad, Alpine, 750 ft (227 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1934, Comici, del Torso
Page Views: 239 total · 10/month
Shared By: ddriver on Sep 6, 2019
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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A recommended route (see Kohler/Memmel or Rushforth) that seems to be little traveled though offering easy access and a short day.  The rock is of reasonable quality and the route offers very good exposure up high.  The descent is easy enough to find but becomes quite tedious as one is forced to steeply descent somewhat slippery terrain.  It is possible to traverse back to the base but it would be wise to avoid this and go straight back towards the hut.


Approach from Lago di Misurina using the chairlift up to Rifugio Col de Varda or by walking uphill (45 min.)  From behind the hut follow trail 117 towards Rifugio Fonda Savio for 5-10 minutes until directly below the peak.  Follow the grass/rubble margin straight up to the low point of the base and walk up left for perhaps 100 feet until you arrive at a double rock gully leading up into steep left-facing terrain. Start here.  All belays are fixed with pins or threads but will want backing up.
1. III, 40m.  Up the left-facing corner and over a dark roof at its right end.  Steep looseness can be bypassed on the right with some exposure.
2. IV-, 30m. Cleaner rock up a chimney to a belay (thread) on the left at a ledge.
3. IV-, 30m. Back right into the crack until a pin belay is reached in an alcove,
4. IV, 40m. Step back left and follow the same crack system until a ledge is reached.  Look right for a fixed belay.
5. IV-, 25m. Follow the same crack slightly rightwards up steep clean rock to a pin belay below an orange roof.
6. V-, 10m.  Step up into a roof which is exited left on steep and very exposed terrain to a large ledge.
7. IV-, 60m. Traverse left on the ledge for about 30 feet and choose a clean crack that leads to the summit ridge and the true summit.

A station provides a short rappel off the back to a notch and then right down a gully until one can access an exposed ledge system. For this towards the hut/chairlift for several minutes, then find the trail of preference down.


Alpine rack.