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[Redacted]
5.10b,
Trad, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Unknown. May have been climbed before but there was no chalk and the bottom is thick with rhodos. Maybe me, not sure.
W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> Lower Meadow
> 1 Tan Wall
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
- **NO PARKING SIGNS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED ALONG ROUTE 19 WHERE IT HAS BEEN CUSTOMARY TO PARK FOR MEADOW RIVER CLIMBING AND BOATING ACCESS. THIS MEANS NO PARKING ALONG ROUTE 19 SOUTH, BETWEEN THE BRIDGE AND UNDERWOOD RD.
THERE IS A NEW PARKING LOT ON DIETZ ROAD OFF OF UNDERWOOD ROAD, PLEASE CARPOOL***
Description
Start under a roof at a breadloaf jug. For shorter climbers, this will definitely be a jump off the ground. Match that hold and pull through a roof, then figure out the crux pulling the second bulge. After this, the climbing is still fun, but much, much easier to the anchor. It's not a one move wonder, but the physical climbing is over pretty quickly. A great short option for newish trad climbers looking for a safe but exciting challenge- or a good warmup for trad climbers that can pull the harder things in the area.
Location
Look for the first chunk of rock right where the trail forks for Upper Meadow and Lower Meadow. You'll see a small cave and the start of the route is masked by rhododendrons on the ground. You can't miss the start hold though once you see it.
Protection
A .75 and a 1 get you through the overhangs. From there the options for pro increase as the difficulty decreases. I used another .75 and a (probably unnecessary) .3 below the anchor. New bolted anchor with rings just under the last little roof at the top.