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South Gully

5.4 X, Trad, 200 ft (61 m),  Avg: 1 from 2 votes
FA: unknown
Colorado > Colorado Springs > N Cheyenne Canyon > Sun Slabs
Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is primarily a solo to reach the summit of the pinnacle and cannot easily be protected. It also has poor rock, especially at the highest and most exposed point. That said, it is an awesome adventure scramble for those with enough experience. Climbers new to soloing/canyon choss should stay away from this one.

Start by romping up a fun gully, eventually gaining the top of the left wall onto the easy slab. Wander/walk up easy slabs with great views for about 70' or so to a right-facing corner. There is a lone red hanger (?) to the left on the steep block with a small tree above that I'm not sure I'd trust and is useless for this climb. Continue with care up the right-facing corner and stem through a short, steep chute/gully to the final chossy ledge traverse. Carefully plan and negotiate the loose and exposed rightward traverse (5.4X) with the summit muffin-top in sight. There is lots of loose rock and scree to be wary of along the traverse and exit.

One may also go direct above the red hanger at 5.6 or so. Easy choose your own adventure that ends with the chossy but good ledge traverse.

Location

There are 3 ways to approach:

  • Hike past the route Kendlee as approaching for the Pinnacle, and do any easy 5th Class downclimb on some exposed slabs to the Sun Slab area. Continue past these climbs following the wall on a faint trail until a hanging boulder blocks the start of the gully above.
  • Hike up to the Sun Slab approach, and follow the directions above.
  • Hike partway up Tinseltown Gully toward Wendy, then cut right on the somewhat obvious trail heading to the wall through the trees on your right.
The gully is blocked by a few easy but tricky boulders. Just keep your eyes peeled for it through the trees when approaching up to the wall.

Protection

All I saw was one old, rogue bolt way off left that I don't think would do much good. This is pretty much a scramble/solo.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down at the obvious gully from the slab above. This photo was taken just about in line with the bolt in the headwall which would be just out of frame to the right.
[Hide Photo] Looking down at the obvious gully from the slab above. This photo was taken just about in line with the bolt in the headwall which would be just out of frame to the right.