Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Carter Stritch
Page Views: 275 total · 12/month
Shared By: Taylor Krosbakken on Sep 3, 2019
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

The dreaded 5.9+ …. Harder than 5.10…

A fairly consistent width at, you guessed it, 5 inches. This corner crack feels infinitely long as you arm bar, forearm jam, and get your knee stuck while you inch your way up passing one small roof in the middle. Small hand holds and foot holds appear often enough for some reprieve and to aid upward progress a bit. For better or for worse the rock is very grippy (read: abrasive).

Really good practice as some would say.  If you are into this sort of thing, it is high quality.

If this has an actual name, let me know.

Location

The obvious wide corner located above the route Menage a Trois. You must do one of three routes to access the base of this climb.

Protection

Surprise, surprise, I would say a #5 is mandatory. I only had one and was able to bump it while leaving 2 #4’s and 2 #3’s where it constricted a bit. I used one .5 on a seem out right and then also slung the pillar at the start with a double length sling.

2 bolts with rap rings at the top. 

Photos