Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 100 ft|
|FA:||Bob Kyrlach and companion, date unknown|
|Page Views:||231 total · 160/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Price on Sep 2, 2019|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Though there are likely various ways to gain the notch below the tower, I took a line that seemed most secure, starting up a shallow chimney at the southeast corner of the tower. Above the chimney, pass a wild bush, which I hand-pruned considerably, and stem a deeper receding chimney, careful not to grab anything loose above. Traverse a corner to the right and you're at the base of the tower.
Start up the center of the south face. From a good ledge you'll see a piton close by and a good bolt several feet above, steering the route toward the exposed arête of the SE corner, where the route stays within reach of to the top. About 10 feet below the summit, from an exposed but adequate foot ledge with a piton in it, the crux move is pulling over a roof and gaining a small shelf with minimal handholds above it. When making this crux move, a solid well placed bolt can be clipped higher to the left, and a second solid bolt is level with the first, but further left on the south face and out of reach, suggesting a route variation that I didn't follow. From the shelf above the crux, a piton can be clipped and the upper lip of the summit is within reach - just be sure that what you grab and commit to is solid (several blocks were not).
There are two bolts on top - one new and solid, one older and thin. The various rap stations were as diverse in age and material as the fixed pro, though most were severely weathered and in tatters. A new (as of 8/31/19) rap station has been established, as well as extended past a potentially hazardous sharp lip for rappelling the south face along the route of ascent.
My 60 meter rope, doubled on rappel, reached within 10 feet of the ground, which I down climbed. Thus, a 70 meter rope would be advised to safely climb and rap the route in a single pitch.
Fixed pro beta for the Mummy