Avg: 3 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m)|
|FA:||Bob Kyrlach and companion, date unknown|
|Page Views:||461 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Price on Sep 2, 2019 · Updates|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
On November 16, 2020, the New Mexico state governor updated the executive order (cv.nmhealth.org/wp-content/…) requiring all visitors from out of state to self-isolate or self-quarantine for a period of at least 14 days from the date of their entry into the State of New Mexico or for the duration of their presence in the State, whichever is shorter. The terms "self-isolate" or "self-quarantine" refer the voluntary physical separation of a person or group of people in a residence or other place of lodging. Any person who is self-isolating or self-quarantining may only leave a residence or place of lodging to receive medical care and should not allow others into the residence or place of lodging except for those providing medical care, emergency response, or other individuals designated by the New Mexico Department of Health.
The executive order also closes all New Mexico State Parks to non-NM residents.
This Executive Order shall take effect on November 16, 2020 and shall remain in effect through the duration of the public health emergency declared in Executive Order 2020-004 and any extensions of that emergency declaration or until it is rescinded.
Additionally, NM state guidance requires all persons to wear a mask anytime they are out in public, including outdoor recreation areas.
Though there are likely various ways to gain the notch below the tower, I took a line that seemed most secure, starting up a shallow chimney at the southeast corner of the tower. Above the chimney, pass a wild bush, which I hand-pruned considerably, and stem a deeper receding chimney, careful not to grab anything loose above. Traverse a corner to the right and you're at the base of the tower.
Start up the center of the south face. From a good ledge you'll see a piton close by and a good bolt several feet above, steering the route toward the exposed arête of the SE corner, where the route stays within reach of to the top. About 10 feet below the summit, from an exposed but adequate foot ledge with a piton in it, the crux move is pulling over a roof and gaining a small shelf with minimal handholds above it. When making this crux move, a solid well placed bolt can be clipped higher to the left, and a second solid bolt is level with the first, but further left on the south face and out of reach, suggesting a route variation that I didn't follow. From the shelf above the crux, a piton can be clipped and the upper lip of the summit is within reach - just be sure that what you grab and commit to is solid (several blocks were not).
There are two bolts on top - one new and solid, one older and thin. The various rap stations were as diverse in age and material as the fixed pro, though most were severely weathered and in tatters. A new (as of 8/31/19) rap station has been established, as well as extended past a potentially hazardous sharp lip for rappelling the south face along the route of ascent.
My 60 meter rope, doubled on rappel, reached within 10 feet of the ground, which I down climbed. Thus, a 70 meter rope would be advised to safely climb and rap the route in a single pitch.
Fixed pro beta for the Mummy