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The Initiation

5.7, Sport, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Scott Eubank and Emily Spahn
International > Africa > Malawi > Mulanje Massif

Description

This formerly run out route has been updated by James Garrett and is now well protected. It can also be climbed and descended with a single 60m rope. 

It is called “The Initiation” because while we were establishing the route, we could hear the sounds of drums from the villages that were coming from a multi day ceremony which signified the entrance to adulthood for local teens. It was also Scott and Emily’s first time going ground up on a first ascent so it was somewhat of an initiation in that sense as well.

Pitch 1  - an easy slab pitch. 

Pitch 2 - follow the bolts up the featured slab

Pitch 3 - more featured slab with a few friction moves

Pitch 4 - easy slab pitch

Pitch 5 - more easy slab

Pitch 6 - more slab, slightly steeper

Pitch 7 - more slab climbing with a bulge to pull

Pitch 8 - slightly steeper pitch, finish route at 2 bolt anchor then rappel

All pitches are 30m or less. It would be possible to link P1/P2, P3/P4, P5/P6 and P7/P8 and do this route in 4 pitches. Bring some slings and extra draws if you plan on linking many pitches. Otherwise a 60m rope and 12 quickdraws is all you need 

This route could be extended but there would be some heavy vegetation to deal with. 

Protection

Bolts. Bring 12 draws and a 60m rope. A couple slings will help with rope drag

The abseil bolts and ring on pitch 4 were missing or look like were remove see pictures uploaded

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approaching through the impressive boulder field. The line is clearly visible center right in this photo
[Hide Photo] Approaching through the impressive boulder field. The line is clearly visible center right in this photo
The Initiation… otherwise a bit difficult to locate on this big wall. Extending the line may require some bushwhacking and cleaning. Awesome as is!
[Hide Photo] The Initiation… otherwise a bit difficult to locate on this big wall. Extending the line may require some bushwhacking and cleaning. Awesome as is!
Pitch #5
[Hide Photo] Pitch #5
Pleasant Pitch #5
[Hide Photo] Pleasant Pitch #5
Emily following P5
[Hide Photo] Emily following P5
Emily taking us to our high point on day 2 of the FA
[Hide Photo] Emily taking us to our high point on day 2 of the FA

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

James Garrett
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Judging by Scott‘s comments here as well as his personal remarks and opinions to me about the nature of THE INITIATION, we climbed it and added bolts to it. We thought it was a great climb and would be a cherished slab climb anywhere. Now very well protected for the 5.7-5.8 leader. We felt a fall or injury here in this part of the climbing world would have serious consequences. Additionally, We searched for 3 hours merely to locate the route. Should be much easier to find now and is a longer route well worth doing…. Do it! If in the area. Thanks Scott and Emily!! Apr 30, 2022
Mark Gunlogson
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] I had the pleasure of climbing there in June, 2025. I went with my own gear, but no partner to Mulanje. I ended up meeting Witness, who is a local rock guide. With his knowledge of the area we were able to find routes no problem, which otherwise would have been tricky. We swung leads on the classic Initiation. The climbing was excellent, though lacking cracks for sure, which is sort of the trademark for the climbs here. If you need a guide you can reach Witness on his WhatsApp number: ( +265)990378853 ; (+265)888766250 or also email address witnessstima@yahoo.com Aug 22, 2025
Joel k
Georgetown, ON
[Hide Comment] Did The Initiation August 1, 2026. Nice introduction to Mulanje. Approach is 1.6km from the road. The route starts about 30m up from the base. As you scramble up to the start you pass one bolt with the hanger missing, one good bolt, and a rusty bolt that had a wire gate binder on it (which we used to rappel back down to the base). The anchors at the end of pitch 8 has a single ring hanging from two rope slings. Consider bringing something to back it up. Really easy going and worth doing. Well protected. One run out section just before final anchor, but ok. Cheers! Aug 1, 2026