Type: Trad, 1200 ft, 12 pitches
FA: Britschgi, Berwert, Fischbader 1983
Page Views: 101 total · 14/month
Shared By: Dan Flynn on Sep 1, 2019
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route


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Description

Adventurous climbing up the 'Bärenwand' face over the Grimselsee. Mostly great rock, with a few slightly less pleasing pitches, bolted anchors but little fixed protection otherwise. A good day out, and far less visited than Mötorhead!

P1 - 6b
Ok climbing with one actual 6b move in a corner.

P2 - 6a+
Keep wandering up and right, a few moves in a slightly overhanging layback. Belay at the grass and then move the belay up to the start of P3.
 
P3 - 5b
A bit grungy -- start off the grassy ledge and climb into the start of the Verschneidung.

P4 - 5c
Verschneidung for days! The super mega pitch of the route. Just fun and secure corner crack climbing for 35+ m, easily protected. One bolt at the very end, before the anchors.

P5 - 6a+
Good climbing.

P6 - 4b
Two pitch 6c variation goes straight up, 'Variente Löwenriss' crack. Looks pretty sweet, but we were trying to beat some weather and didn't feel motivated to try!
Walk right and pop up an easy corner for original P6.

P7 - 5b
Super nice rock; flakes and jugs. Can link with P6 with good rope management.

P8 - 5a
Easy ramp

P9 - 6b
Sport climbing! Crimp and pull, bolt-protected pitch up to the base of a jumbled chimney feature.

P10 - 6a
Fun chimney and jugs, with one or two bolts as I recall.

P11 - 6a
Good climbing.

P12 - 6a
To the top.

Location

Difficult to find the start. Best option is to take a good look at the overview photo below, make your best guess on the approach, and also look at the abseil photo to help identify the start of the route.

The start has a bolted anchor, to the left of a small spring (quelle) coming out of the rock. We did some extensive up and down scrambling on steep grass until we found it!

Protection

Full rack from small stuff to #3, and definitely nuts! Long slings useful. Double 60s will get you down faster than 50s, we linked a few abseils.

Photos

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