Type: | Sport, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
FA: | Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 2003. |
Page Views: | 509 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | gso Orton on Aug 31, 2019 |
Admins: | Winston Mueller, Micah Klesick, Nate Ball |
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Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED
Details
WALK-IN PERMITS
Permit sales start June 23rd at 7pm
$100 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
recreation.weyerhaeuser.com…
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.
Permit sales start June 23rd at 7pm
$100 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
recreation.weyerhaeuser.com…
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.
Description
The cave route begins at the downhill side of the rock. Follow the bolt line to the ledge and bolted belay about 20 feet up. From this belay you can climb to the left side arete route (Pot of Gold .10d), right (Midas .8), or continue straight up (Cave Route). Beginning the climbs at this belay will help reduce rope drag later on. Rappelling back down to this ledge and then to the ground in 2 separate raps will help avoid rope entanglement in the bushes.
P1: climb to the lower left of the fist cave (5.7) and follow bolts out onto the left slab and up (5.10a slab friction) into a large cave above (5.9). Once inside the cave set up a belay from chains or continue the remaining 25 feet to the summit. The cave is a great place to hangout and take in the view of the valley below, but so is the top.
P2: follow bolts out the left side of the cave (5.8) and up to the summit (5.7).
Rappel: 100 ft. from chains.
Note: you are likely to encounter some poison oak on the bottom portion of this route.
P1: climb to the lower left of the fist cave (5.7) and follow bolts out onto the left slab and up (5.10a slab friction) into a large cave above (5.9). Once inside the cave set up a belay from chains or continue the remaining 25 feet to the summit. The cave is a great place to hangout and take in the view of the valley below, but so is the top.
P2: follow bolts out the left side of the cave (5.8) and up to the summit (5.7).
Rappel: 100 ft. from chains.
Note: you are likely to encounter some poison oak on the bottom portion of this route.
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