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Losing Eleven*

5.11a/b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2.5 from 11 votes
FA: Lee Hansche 8/29/19
New Hampshire > Rumney > Main Cliff Right

Description

Though it isn't sustained in difficulty the wildly exposed and playful roof pull at the crux makes this a worth while pitch. Honestly the fact that it eases off after the crux is a draw for me at times. It's nice to do a challenging route without having to be on edge for 10 minutes straight. If you want to get above the crowds for a bit take a spin on this one.

Climb up on the right side of the bolt line passing a small overhang and work up so you are standing on a small ledge just below the bigger overhang. clip the bolt on the roof. Make wild and fun moves out the short roof and on to the true crux, a three move sequence,  as you establish yourself above the overhang. From here the difficulty eases off considerably but it stays super fun. Work your way over and around a series of bulges with excellent exposure until you hit the final headwall. Make a few juggy but slightly steep moves past one more bolt and on to the anchor just below the true top of the cliff.

The 4th bolt, right at the crux is strenuous to clip but it is helpful for working the crux. On a redpoint attempt you might prefer to clip it at your waist after doing the crux. Seems like the falls would be safe.

Location

The route starts from the ledge that is used to link Charity Case to the last pitch of White Toad. They call this pitch Charity Toad. Look for an obvious glue in anchor with quick links about 15 feet before you get to the White Toad Anchor. There is a fairly comfy stance here.

When you lower off you come straight back to the anchor.

You can rappel back to the base of White toad (a little to climbers right) with a 60 m but just barely so tie knots in your rope ends! A 70 m gives you room to spare. 

Protection

8 bolts to pigtail anchor. Start from 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Another shot of the route.
[Hide Photo] Another shot of the route.
Kevin pulling the roof
[Hide Photo] Kevin pulling the roof
Mike pulling hard.
[Hide Photo] Mike pulling hard.
Moving out the roof, starting the crux. This happened about 120 ft off the deck. Quite exciting :)
[Hide Photo] Moving out the roof, starting the crux. This happened about 120 ft off the deck. Quite exciting :)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] Could you link Stained Glass Ceiling into this for one mega pitch? Aug 30, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Unfortunately they don’t really line up. The only thing that lines up directly is dead toad. Aug 30, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] The anchor is between high roller and white toad’s anchors.
For This route you just want to clip the anchors and lower back down to your partner like a regular single pitch. From there you can rap off of the quick link anchor i added, back to the base of white toad with a 60m rope, carefully. Aug 30, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] And get after it! It’s super fun! Aug 30, 2019
[Hide Comment] Looking fwd to it, Lee, now that it is a little cooler out. Aug 31, 2019
Ming
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] The route is still exfoliating. I ripped out one of the jug pockets(!) right before the anchor. Took a nice fall. I also took out a super nice undercling that held on my first burn so it was chalked up and took another whipper. The crux is very clean, but everything afterwards on the easy terrain can be a bit suspect. Oct 7, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Oh no, that’s surprising to me. Ive climbed it 5 times without any issues. I tend to climb pretty gently but I also tested all the holds I could see people using to the best of my ability. Oct 7, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] Just glad the Falls were clean and no one was hurt. I’ll keep climbing it and wearing it in. I hope some others do as well :)
Glad you got on it and sounds like you sent in the end! Oct 7, 2019
[Hide Comment] The move to the jug at the roof kicked my butt today. Felt so hopeless. After ading that move, the rest of the climb went OK for me. The top half of the route is still being cleaned up with traffic. Small pebbles and dirt. I was able to skip holds which looked suspect to me (maybe 2 or 3) and had no exploding or creaky holds en route. But I do climb on the 'gentle side' whenever I can. Oct 13, 2019
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.11a/b
[Hide Comment] I’m glad you got on it! Especially with the foliage right now! I did test all the suspect holds I found with a pry bar but always best to be safe and people all interpret routes differently so you could find something I didn’t. As for that roof move to the jug, it will go, next time perhaps. Oct 13, 2019
[Hide Comment] Lee, thanks for all the hard work you put into creating this route for all to enjoy. And the kind words about next time :)
Yes, the view was amazing. As I wrote elsewhere, with foliage at peak, I cannot remember a more pretty view of the river and the valley beyond than the one we had yesterday from up here. Oct 14, 2019