Type: Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches
FA: Jim Woodmencey, Renny Jackson - August 3, 1989
Page Views: 136 total · 23/month
Shared By: Vic Zeilman on Aug 29, 2019
Admins: Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson

You & This Route


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Description

Jim's Big Day traverses beneath the enormous roof/hanging corner on the south face of the Enclosure. Although the lower part of the climb is somewhat forgettable, the crux pitch is a four star classic with wild exposure and good protection. Finish on a fun ridge scramble to the top of the Enclosure. This would be a great option for a half day climb for those teams with a two night stay at the Lower Saddle. Expect some seepage in the crack system below the roof if climbing this route earlier in the summer. 

Hike for about 20-30 minutes up the standard approach to the Upper Saddle. At a tall rock pillar up and left of the Eye of the Needle, cut across the Idaho Express Couloir and locate an obvious ledge system near the start of the route. Traverse across the couloir and set up a belay on the far side out of the rock fall zone.

P1- Pull a few mid-5th class moves to gain the broad ledge and run the rope to the end on 3rd/4th class terrain, belaying beneath some broken black rock and a large corner system higher on the wall.
P2-P4- This section of the climb can be broken up in different ways, but it's mostly 5.6-5.7 climbing up the obvious weakness and can be easily simul-climbed or combined into two pitches. Start with a couple 5.8 moves in the black rock as you pull over a little roof-bulge then continue up the large corner until you reach a ledge below the massive roof overhead. Belay on one of the higher ledges before entering the crux.
P5- Stem, jam, layback and fight your way up the hanging corner of beautiful, golden rock (5.10-). End the pitch on a sizeable belay ledge near the end of the rope.
P6- Climb an awesome knife edge directly above the belay ledge (run-out 5.5) that eventually turns into an exposed 4th class ridge scramble to the top of the Enclosure.

Descend the standard climbers trail back to the Lower Saddle.

Location

This routes is clearly visible from the Lower Saddle. Head up the standard approach trail to the Owen Spalding/Upper Saddle, looking for the large rock pillar described above.

Protection

Doubles from fingers to #3 camalot, a few smaller cams, and a few midsized stoppers. A #4 cam was also useful on the crux pitch. Long runners.

Photos