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Wanderlust

5.10+ PG13, Trad, 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: Jeff Sheuerell, 2008 Ground Up
California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Shuteye Creek Area > Gray Eagle > N Face Left Side

Description

P1: 10+. Wandering. Four bolts of interesting slab climbing traverse right. Then go up, following knobs and chicken heads to another bolt. Continue up and over an overlap trending left and then back right following the good holds. Ends in a 2 bolt anchor. An incredible pitch that felt a bit run out at times to me.

P2: 5.9. Load up some gear in a crack and then head up and left to a bolt (slightly runout) then surmount the roof heading up and right following better holds and easier climbing to another bolted anchor.

P3: 5.5 Easy climbing up jugs to a 2 bolt anchor.

Upon reaching the top of the third pitch, we expected to find easy climbing up two more pitches to the top, however, it looked neither obvious nor easy. Perhaps one climbs up through steeper cracks or traverses right on knobs? With darkness impending we decided to rap back to the base, leaving bail biners at the top of p3. Rapping pitch 3 is only possible with an 80m rope or longer.

Location

Locate four bolts traversing right across a large slab. Begin by climbing a short right facing flake to the first bolt. 

Protection

Primarily bolts and knob slings on the three pitches we climbed, however gear up to 3" is needed in places.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ernesto Magallanez nears the belay of pitch 1.
[Hide Photo] Ernesto Magallanez nears the belay of pitch 1.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] How do you know the name of this route but not the FA info? Nice job! Aug 28, 2019
Keane Anderson
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] The name but not the FA was in the guidebook. Was it yours Jeff or do you know the FA party? I'll update it. Aug 28, 2019
[Hide Comment] Not a big deal, was just curious. Just looked in the guide and it is in there. Aug 29, 2019
Keane Anderson
  5.10+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Ah you're right Jeff. Updated. Aug 29, 2019
Sean Neville
San Mateo, CA
[Hide Comment] This is a great route. The first pitch is one of the best in the area for the grade. I wish I knew who put this up......
BTW the upper pitches are hard to figure out. I also believe when I did the second pitch there were 2-3 bolts before hitting the wandering knobs. Aug 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] Hey Sean! Miss climbing with you all out there. Anybody do the second pitch of Gravy Train? When I placed the first bolt off the belay it was in such a spot that the rope would catch on a lower knob as soon as any slack was in the system. I placed on a bolt a bit higher to stop the problem but only had my light hammer so never removed the first. You get up there and see two bolts so close and go WTF. Hope someone can remove the lower or I can make it back out some day soon and do it. It is an awesome pitch, great exposure. Would love to take that route to the top or at least another pitch. Aug 29, 2019
[Hide Comment] After the bolts on the first pitch a creative climber can get more gear then you think. I remember yelling up to someone as they were leading it to place a #3 and they were like WTF, no way. It is there and it is bomb squad! Also a few tricams are nice if you are creative as well. And as Keane mentions, a few slings on knobs and plates. Aug 29, 2019