Type: Trad, Alpine, 1800 ft (545 m), 17 pitches
FA: 1988
Page Views: 1,090 total · 17/month
Shared By: Mark P. on Aug 27, 2019
Admins: Mark P., James H, Dan Flynn

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Description Suggest change

The only route on Zwillingsturm that goes to the main summit of Salbit.

15+ pitches of granite climbing, first up the Zwillingsturm, then transitions to the main tower. Mostly crack climbing on bomber granite, the cracks become dirtier the higher you go. The best pitches are 2 and 3.

Clog and Stock AKA Clock and Stock: the name changes depending on the guidebook used, but "clock" seems to be the consensus talking to people at the hut. However, "CLOG" is painted at the start.

Some of the bolts and anchors are colored BLUE so you know which climb you're on. Look ahead for a blue bolt if you're unsure if you're on the right route, as several other routes cross it or pass near it.

P1: 5.6/7
P2: 5.10b
P3: 5.10b
P4: 5.10a
P5: 5.5 (make sure to end at the anchors in the far right corner, NOT the obvious anchor in front of the slab that leads to a 5.11 finger crack - look for blue bolts above the anchor)
P6: 5.8
P7 & 8: 5.9
P9: 5.7
P10: 5.5
P11-13: 5.9
P14: 5.7
P15: 5.5
P16... keep following bolts and easy climbing until you get to the trail.

Descent: follow the descent trail, marked with red paint, to the couloir, then down to the hut. Cables are provided in exposed or dangerous sections. Some parts of the trail have two options - if you don't feel comfortable walking on the soft snow, follow the options that tend further down the couloir to arrive at a rocky trail below the snow. Descent to the hut takes about 90 minutes.

Location Suggest change

Located approximately in the middle of the snow field at the base of Zwillingsturm. Above the snowpack, you'll see "CLOG" painted in white paint at the top of P1. Also, a metal plate marks the start.

Protection Suggest change

this route has some bolts throughout, but most climbers will want to also bring a small rack of 0.5 - 3 BD cams, plus a few nuts. Bring at least 10 slings / draws to feel comfortable. Anchors have two bolts, some are equipped with rap rings or steel carabiners, some are just two bolts.

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