Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995.
Page Views: 75 total · 12/month
Shared By: gso Orton on Aug 24, 2019
Admins: Micah Klesick, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED Details

Description

Follow the left trending crack, just left of the "{hourglass") about 70 feet to the prominent belay ledge ("Southwest Ledge") above. Two bolts protect the bottom half of the climb.  Once you're over the lip (5.9), the last half is quality crack climbing (5.10a).

Location

In the guide pp 144 this is identified to be on the east wall of Fantasy Island but is actually South facing. There is a ledge trail that will take you from the North saddle around the right side (looking down hill) to the downhill south side of the rock. Or, scramble to and rappel from the "Southwest Ledge".

Protection

bolts, 0.5 to 3-inch cams

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