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Routes in Fantasy Island
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Bambi Meets Godzilla S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bloody Knuckles S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bonsai Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Bungee Jump S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Cosmos S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dot to Dot S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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King Kong S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Legend of the Fall S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Mad Hatter S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Outer Limits S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Rocket Man S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Space Cowboy S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Spiritual Journey T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Through the Lookingglass T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Twilight Zone S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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White Rabbit S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Wild Thing S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Greg Orton & Harold Hall, 1995. |
| Page Views: | 189 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | gso Orton on Aug 24, 2019 |
| Admins: | Nate Ball, Micah Klesick |
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Access Issue: PERMIT REQUIRED
Details
WALK-IN PERMITS
Permit sales start May 31
150 permits will be available
$75 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
wyrecreation.com/permits
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.
Permit sales start May 31
150 permits will be available
$75 each
Permit Term: August 1 – July 23 of following year.
wyrecreation.com/permits
This permit covers Non-Motorized walk-in access to the Coos Bay Millicoma Tree Farm, including the Callahans climbing area west of Roseburg, Oregon.
When parking on Touchstone Rd, do not block the school bus turnaround and be respectful of all neighbors. As private timberland, climber compliance with the permit system is critical for Access Fund and SW Oregon Climbers Coalition to explore future improved access with Weyerhaeuser, such as a recreational lease.
Description
Follow the left trending crack, just left of the "{hourglass") about 70 feet to the prominent belay ledge ("Southwest Ledge") above. Two bolts protect the bottom half of the climb. Once you're over the lip (5.9), the last half is quality crack climbing (5.10a).
Location
In the guide pp 144 this is identified to be on the east wall of Fantasy Island but is actually South facing. There is a ledge trail that will take you from the North saddle around the right side (looking down hill) to the downhill south side of the rock. Or, scramble to and rappel from the "Southwest Ledge".
Photos
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