Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: 1965 by Donald Cramer, Donald Anderson, Bruce Schuler, Fred Stanley
Page Views: 179 total · 48/month
Shared By: Paul Brown on Aug 23, 2019
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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See Nicholson's "Washing Pass Climbing" Supertopo book for a topo and detailed beta on the route.  (This particular route is also available as a free sample online from Supertopo.)

P1. Establish an initial anchor after walking carefully across gravelly, gently down-sloping but still class 2 ledges.  Climb up far climber's right most of a rope length to some trees, generally staying right.  (This is the price of admission pitch.)
P2. Continue up to the ridge crest and perform a roped hike/scramble to a sandy spot near the "shark fin".  There is a good spot for a gear anchor (#2+#3) behind a flake.
P3. Climb up and over the shark fin and then up the summit block.  You can belay from the bolts at the summit.  (This is the money pitch.)

From the pair of bolts with some tat nearest the south side of the summit, either a single-rope rap to an intermediate anchor on the face or a double-rope rap all the way back to the notch will get you back down.


Initial belay from the far eastern edge of the Concord/Lexington notch.  Finding the notch can be a challenge, since the resolution on topo maps isn't necessarily adequate for navigation among the towers.  Instead, aim for this:


60m rope, modest rack (cams in .4-3" with doubles in finger sizes depending on confidence, nuts), pink tricam for the slot on the summit block. Bolts on the summit.